There are a lot of different ways Carlo and Dante Mondavi could have gone in the wine world, given their lineage: Sons of Tim, grandsons of Robert, they could have been the next generation to take on Bordeaux—and they are, in a way, having both worked at Robert’s Opus One and their parents’ Continuum—but with their new(ish) project, RAEN, they’ve forged an entirely new path for a family so readily associated with Napa.
Venturing out to the extreme Sonoma Coast—California’s “it” region for balanced, site-expressive Pinot Noir—the brothers have found three distinct vineyards, all in very close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, and have genuinely done their damnedest to let those vineyards speak for themselves. This is not just a “Mondavi” branding exercise: It’s a passion project with a “natural” bent, with wines produced with only native yeasts, whole-cluster fermentation, and used oak barrels. These Pinots are ‘stylized’ only in whatever way the individual vineyards dictate. Now in their third vintage, Carlo and Dante have created a new ‘must-have’ from the storied Sonoma Coast, but it’s produced in tiny quantities. We’re lucky they’re our friends; we’ve scored a nice-sized parcel of the 2015 “Royal St. Robert” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir to share with you.
What Robert Mondavi did for California is, of course, the stuff of legend, but it boils down to this: he believed in California terroir. Thanks to him and his contemporaries, California proved it could do Cabernet Sauvignon as well (or better) than anyone. And while the Sonoma Coast didn’t need Carlo and Dante to come along to put it on the wine map, that was not their mission. RAEN (which stands for ‘Research in Agriculture and Enology Naturally’) was conceived as a validation of the Sonoma Coast as one of California’s most important terroirs for Pinot Noir—it’s the same reverence for “place” that fueled projects such as Opus One. Carlo and Dante’s passion for Pinot Noir was first fueled by their father, Tim, at the family dinner table. This thirst deepened as their grandfather brought them on adventures through the Pinot Noir Holy Grail that is Burgundy, where they visited many of the region’s greatest domaines.
True to their source material—which, for “Royal St. Robert,” hails from an especially cool, fog-influenced vineyard in the town of Freestone, overlooking Bodega Bay—the brothers take a very old-school approach to this wine. Grapes are harvested at night to ensure freshness, and fermentations are inoculated using only the ambient yeasts that arrive in the winery with the grapes. About 75% of the fermenting must contains whole grape clusters, which, among other things, seems to moderate the wine’s alcohol content (this one comes in at 13%, quite “fresh” for California Pinot). The wine is aged for ten months in 60-gallon, neutral French oak casks, after which it is bottled without fining or filtration, revealing a pure expression of terroir with the most nuanced and elegant characteristics of Pinot Noir.
The 2015 Royal St. Robert Cuvèe exhibits a concentrated ruby red core with a light garnet rim. The delicate, restrained nose reveals wild strawberry, pomegranate and rhubarb over an array of wet rose petals, white tea, grape stems, thyme, damp forest floor, crushed rocks, and warm baking spices. It is medium-plus in body with firm, fine-grained tannins similar to a youthful Gevrey-Chambertin. Although charming now—decant it about 30 minutes before serving between 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems—this would absolutely reward 5-10 years in your cellar. In previous offers of this wine (we’ve offered every vintage they’ve released), I’ve tended to go with something classic and ‘Burgundian,’ but this time I’m going full-bore ‘Sonoma Coast,’ preferably with some Bodega Bay salmon, in recognition of what has become a truly world-class region for Pinot Noir. Kudos to the Mondavi brothers for doing it justice. Cheers!