I’ve lived in Napa for more than a year now, and my original reason for moving here was simple: I wanted to be in the thick of the California wine scene. First and foremost, I love being able to see where the wines are grown, and begin to understand the variations in terroir. But it’s also invaluable to develop relationships with the growers and makers of these wines—not just the stalwarts that have been here for decades but the not-yet-discovered newcomers.
This wine is a very promising first release from Smith Devereaux, a project that has all the greatest aspects of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, except for the often prohibitive price point. Comprised of mountain-grown fruit from both sides of the Napa Valley (Howell Mountain and Diamond Mountain), this has the power and persistence we crave in California Cabernet, at a price that’s rare for a wine of this quality. If the initial response to this small-production wine is any indication, it’s likely to grow more expensive in subsequent vintages—so I’m glad we snapped up the 2014 to offer to you.
In the glass, the Smith Devereux 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon—which is indeed 100% Cabernet—is an opaque purple-ruby extending all the way to the rim. The nose is dark-fruited and concentrated, redolent of black currant, blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate, loamy earth, leather and tobacco. It is full-bodied, with some dusty tannins framing the fruit, lending it a burly, slightly rustic quality that characterizes mountain-grown Cabernet. Overall it is extremely satisfying without being sappy or sweet, and it is styled to drink in the near term: It will be a great, affordable go-to over the next 3-5 years, opening up nicely after 30-60 minutes in a decanter. Serve it at a slightly cool 60 degrees in large Bordeaux stems alongside something off the grill this Spring/Summer: Some long-cooked baby back ribs might be just the ticket. But if you’re a Cabernet drinker, this Smith Devereaux is one to have around regardless of what’s on the menu. Cheers!