Half the fun of buying (and studying) Burgundy is poring over the vineyard maps—or, even better, walking the actual vineyards. As we note often in this space, some of the best Burgundy values are found in vineyards which, for whatever reason, sit ever-so-marginally outside some historic line of demarcation.
Take, for example, the Premier Cru vineyards “En Remilly” and “Murgers Dents de Chien” in the village of Saint-Aubin—literally a nine-iron away from the various ‘Montrachet’ Grand Crus of Chassagne/Puligny. Yes, there are subtle differences in aspect, soil composition, etc. that some studious monk recorded centuries ago, but the price differences aren’t typically as subtle. The vineyard source for this wine, the Premier Cru “Sous Frétille” in the village of Pernand-Vergelesses, is similarly well-positioned (and undervalued): it is about 200 yards from the iconic Corton hill and its Grand Crus, and shares a very similar southerly aspect at slightly lower altitude. I tasted Domaine Marius Delarche’s “Sous Frétille” 2015 side-by-side with their Corton-Charlemagne (which costs more than twice as much) from the same vintage. Both were superb, and both showed ‘15’s characteristic generosity at a young age—but at this moment, the Sous Frétille edged out its fancier sibling, showing more intensity and perfume. I’ve been itching to offer it ever since—at this quality-to-price it’s impossible not to get excited! This is the ultimate sleeper, and we reserved all we could for this offer.