To say that the 2005 vintage in Bordeaux was “acclaimed” is putting it mildly. British eminence Jancis Robinson called it “textbook perfection.” The Wall Street Journal published an article suggesting that the 2005s could be “the saviors of the fine-wine investment market.” And yes, more than a few observers went with the “vintage of the century” tag.
And, as always in a hyped vintage like this one, a disproportionate amount of attention was paid to the (exorbitant) release prices of bottles from the top châteaux, particularly the ‘First Growth’ estates. But the whole point of a growing season like 2005 is that great conditions produce top-to-bottom results. This 2005 Haut-Médoc from Château Citran is delicious evidence of that, and was among our most exciting finds during a recent trip to Bordeaux. Shipped directly from its négociant’s cellars to our climate-controlled warehouse in Northern California, this is the second in a series of SommSelect direct imports you’ll be seeing on offer here. It is a voluptuous, evocative, well-aged Bordeaux in perfect physical condition, ready to be enjoyed tonight or over the next few years. And it comes to you for less than $40. You might say we’re on a mission, and that mission is pretty straightforward—to find a way for everyone, regardless of budget, to enjoy the complex aromas and evolved flavors of mature red wine with regularity. If you haven’t jumped onboard yet, now’s the time!
Located in Avensan, just eight kilometers west of Margaux, the picturesque Château Citran is classified as cru bourgeois, a category created for exceptional properties that weren’t included in the 1855 Classification of crus classés. Granted historical monument heritage designation in 2012, the 13th-century fortress and estate remained in the same family for 600 years. The Clauzel family ushered the estate into the 20th century, enhancing its image, but two World Wars sent the once-grand château and its vineyards into steep decline. Two more owners would work to resuscitate the historic property, including a Japanese holding company that invested some serious cash in renovation. In 1987, the Merlaut Family and their firm, Groupe Taillan, purchased Citran. Taillan owns several prominent châteaux in Bordeaux, including the famous Château Gruaud-Larose, and, under Jacques Merlaut, has breathed new life into Citran. Sustainable farming of the estate’s 90 hectares has been a key factor in what can only be described as a renaissance at Citran, as evidenced by this robust and energetic 2005.
The wine is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot, which was derived from sandy gravel and chalky marl soils, respectively. The hand-harvested fruit was sorted in the vineyard and was fermented in a combination of tanks and barrels, after which is was aged in French oak barriques (35% new) for 15 months.
Most reports on the 2005 vintage speak of rich wines with powerful tannins that would take time time in bottle to resolve. Well, now we can see what happens when a wine is actually given that time: In the glass, Citran’s ‘05 still has a deep ruby core moving to a brickish garnet at the rim. What was clearly an explosive, black-fruited young wine has evolved into a nuanced, perfumed, mature wine with complex aromas of black currant, dried black cherry, huckleberry, leather, cigar box, autumn leaves, dried herbs, and cedar. On the palate it delivers lush, slightly sappy red and black fruit that is lifted by acid and framed by tannins that have mellowed into an ultra-fine, sandy side note. It is a very heady wine, with a long, aromatic finish that makes you wish you had a old, wood-paneled library to drink it in (and if you do...all the better!). I would decant this wine for sediment about 20 minutes before serving in Bordeaux stems, allowing it to come up from cellar temp to about 60-65 degrees. Its elegance, roundness, and cured-tobacco savor call for something a little gamey, like the attached roasted/stuffed leg of lamb. This would be a memorable main course combination, to say the least—and you don’t need to be a captain of industry to pull it off. Cheers!
