Sourced from a chilly, expertly curated private cellar and purchased at their original release prices, David Duband’s 2005 and 2007 bottlings of Gevrey-Chambertin offer a fascinating side-by-side comparison of Burgundy vintages. We decided to offer them as a “2-pack” because (a) we couldn’t acquire enough to offer either vintage on its own, and (b) we so enjoyed tasting them one after the other. In a relatively short time, David Duband has become an expert interpreter of his terroirs in the Côte de Nuits, and both of these wines showcase his distinctive style—one that combines elements of the “traditional” and “modern” to create wines that are at once expressive of their place and beautifully polished.
For all you Burgundy collectors out there, this is a don’t miss opportunity: The bottles are in perfect condition, have significant bottle age, and are priced below current release prices. They’re drinking beautifully now but have long lives ahead. If only we had more!
The Duband family had traditionally sold grapes to local cooperatives, but that began to change when David Duband took over the domaine in 1991, while he was still in enology school in Beaune. In addition to acquiring parcels to add to the domaine’s holdings (including the purchase of seven hectares from Jacky Truchot in Morey-St-Denis), David began the conversion of both family-owned and leased vineyards to organic viticulture; this began in earnest in 1999, and by 2006 he was completely organic (now certified by Ecocert, one of Europe’s governing bodies for organic/biodynamic practices). His winemaking style was initially characterized by a plush, pure, fruit-forward style supported by a healthy dose of new oak, but that has been more finely calibrated over the years. One of the interesting things about our tasting of the ‘05 and ‘07 was how the wines reflected his evolution: Both wines are well-extracted, with a deep and satisfying core of fruit—Duband’s Gevrey-Chambertin holdings are quite mature, with an average age of 65 years—but there is also the spicy, mineral signature of Gevrey poking through, and the oak component has receded into the background.
In concert, these two wines are an enlightening example of the nuances and personality of vintage in the Co?te de Nuits. Academics aside, each wine delivers its own unique expression of their growing season with the voice of one of the most celebrated Burgundian villages, crafted by a masterful hand. The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin is the result of one of the most exceptional vintages in the last couple decades, period. On sight, the wine is ruby red at its core with slight garnet and a hint of orange on the rim. The nose bursts open with a dark core of fruit: slightly dried black cherry, black raspberry and goji berry are wound inside a savory nest of dried rose petals, fennel pollen, a touch of dried black licorice, cut twigs, a hint of black mushrooms, finely crushed rocks and that enchanting overarching perfume we all hold our breath for when opening a bottle of great red Burgundy. On the palate, the tannins are beginning to soften into velvet and the harmony of fruit and savor transcends the wine’s village-level classification.
The 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin is a product of a cool growing season and is a bit of a sleeper vintage. Although the vintage was slightly cooler, a decade has revealed a more high-toned red Burgundy with incredible balance, perfume, poise and elegance. I love 2007’s at the moment. The garnet red core moves to slight orange reflections on the edge of the rim. Aromatics are led by an array of violet, wildflower and hibiscus florals over bright notes of fresh red cherry, raspberry, sandalwood, crushed stones and a hint of exotic spices. In appearance and texture, it is a completely different wine—the treble to the ‘05’s bass. It’s fascinating to switch back-and-forth, and I strongly advise enjoying these wines side-by-side with some similarly serious Burgundy lovers. Avoid decanting, as many of the delicate aromatics will be lost to the air. Instead, pull the cork on these wines 60-90 minutes ahead and let the wines unfold in the glass. These are smoky, savory, classic expressions of Gevrey-Chambertin that deserve something a little aristocratic in a food pairing: try
this sumptuous Emeril Lagasse recipe as the denouement to your side-by-side tasting. That will be some night!
