When you’re buying wine for restaurants (or e-commerce sites, for that matter), certain wines become automatic placements. With these wines, no one’s bringing a bag full of samples for you to consider—they’re bringing you a sheet of paper on which to write your wish list, which you can only hope will be fulfilled. Domaine Vacheron, arguably the leading producer in Sancerre, has reached this level (with us, anyway, but with others too, I’m sure).
Wines like the one we’re offering here—Vacheron’s 2013 Sancerre “Le Paradis,” from a one-hectare piece of perhaps the greatest Sauvignon Blanc vineyard in the world—are never a question of “if,” but rather of “when” and “how much can we get.”
The Vacheron cousins, Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique, are the young faces of a family that goes back nine generations in Sancerre. They farm 34 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc and 11 of Pinot Noir, holdings which include most of the best sites in the region. Although Sancerre has no ranking system à la Burgundy, the Vacherons are said to take a “Burgundian” approach in the vineyards and cellar, vinifying wine by parcel in an effort to showcase different terroir expressions. A majority of their vineyards are planted on silex (flint), but the dramatically steep, south-facing “Le Paradis” is comprised of pure limestone, with topsoil so thin that the vine roots burrow into fissures in the chalky ‘mother rock’ below. Needless to say, this is one of the most profoundly mineral wines you’ll ever taste.
Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique were relatively early adopters of biodynamic viticulture, having been certified back in 2005, and their natural approach is reflected in the purity and pulsating energy of their wines. They plow their soils, fertilize with natural compost, plant cover crops between the rows of vines, and hand-harvest much smaller yields than their neighbors. The pristine grapes are gently pressed then fermented with only natural yeasts in stainless steel and open-top wooden fermenters. The wine is then aged in a combination of neutral, large foudre and smaller barrels for 12 months, after which it is bottled unfined and unfiltered according to the lunar calendar.
The 2013 le Paradis displays a straw yellow core with green reflections at the rim. The aromatics are as complex and concentrated as Sauvignon Blanc gets, with scents of passion fruit, guava, green apple, green peach pit, gooseberry, honeysuckle and green mango peel checked by savory notes of mushroom, wet herbs and a distinct chalk minerality. The palate delivers incredible power, electrifying depth and texture, and a mineral drive that is a true testament to this treasured site’s exceptional terroir. Although this wine is stunning in its current state, it will continue to age gracefully for a good 10 years (or more). For instant gratification, decant for a minimum of one hour and serve in Bordeaux stems between 50-55 degrees. There are a lot of options in terms of food—it would be amazing with blue-veined cheeses and/or chèvre, for one—but let’s go with this
recipe for sole in a lemon-cream sauce. Maybe some asparagus on the side? Spring can’t come soon enough...