We talk a fair amount in this space about the wines whose bottles are the “first to be emptied” when we’re tasting alongside our fellow wine geeks. Many of them, like this wine, are the humblest of the bunch in terms of price/reputation—but they over-deliver in the pleasure department.
Philippe Tessier is a committed organic vintner in the Loire Valley, producing wines in the Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny AOCs that are all about unadorned, straightforward deliciousness. Tessier’s Cheverny Rouge “Le Point du Jour” 2015, a blend of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Gamay, is what a cool, young Francophile would call a vin de soif (‘wine of thirst’). The more likely place to find this wine is in a hip wine bar (on a table full of bargain-hunting off-duty sommeliers), but we did some extra pleading with our distributor to get enough of it to share in an offer here. Offering great purity, aromatic complexity, and palate-invigorating energy at an incredible price, it’s more than just a wine of thirst. We’d go a step further and call it a vin de joie (‘wine of joy’), and we’re probably not the first.
The Loire Valley may be the most progressive wine region in the world when it comes to organic and biodynamic farming, and Tessier is part of a generation of natural winemakers who’ve developed an ardent following. His farm, founded by his father, Roger, in 1961, now spans 23 acres of vines that have been certified organic by ECOCERT (Europe’s first certification body) since 1998. Cheverny is in the Touraine sub-region of the ‘central’ Loire, but at the eastern end, up-river from more Cabernet Franc/Chenin Blanc-driven appellations such as Chinon or Vouvray. The grape mix shifts more toward Sauvignon Blanc (and, in Cour-Cheverny, Romorantin) for the whites, and Pinot Noir/Gamay for the reds. It’d be a little simplistic to describe “Le Point du Jour” as a love child of Sancerre Rouge and Cru Beaujolais, but then again…it’s not so far off the mark, actually! The Cheverny Rouge AOC actually prescribes a Pinot Noir-Gamay blend, though it does allow for as much as 15% Cab Franc/Malbec (here known as Cot) as well.
Tessier’s resolutely natural approach extends from the vineyards to the cellar: he hand-harvests the grapes; uses only native yeasts to start fermentations; subjects his wines to minimal filtration; and favors used, large oak barrels and cement vats for aging. Le Point du Jour, weighing in at a mere 12% alcohol, was fermented using 80% whole clusters (a factor in reducing alcohol) and was aged in a mix of large, neutral barrels and stainless steel. Its core of fruit is clean, pure, and aromatic, with a subtle mineral underpinning.
In the glass, the 2015 is a youthful, bright ruby red with flecks of purple/violet at the rim. The nose is just a cascade of fresh fruits, driven more by the Pinot Noir portion of the blend: red maraschino cherry, red raspberry, red currant, and ripe strawberry lead the way in a lush, satisfying wave, backed by floral notes of rose and violet. The Gamay component is more readily evident on the palate, where the ‘purple’ side of the wine shows through, as does a touch of the iodine/crushed stone minerality typical of cru Beaujolais. The tannins are extremely soft and ripe, and the overall effect is lip-smackingly juicy, with bright but moderate acidity. It is almost impossible to sip slowly—its lush texture on the mid-palate cleans up nicely (and aromatically) on the finish, inviting you back immediately for another sip. I would advise a brief 30 minute decant, then serve in Burgundy stems just above cellar temp. This wine is ideal as an apéritif red or with an assortment of cured meats/charcuterie. It’d be a great, refreshing choice alongside some spicy barbecue as well; invite some friends over for some of these
baby back ribs, and be sure to have backups on the Tessier. You’ll need it. Enjoy!
