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Domaine Michelot, Meursault, Premier Cru, 'Les Charmes'

Burgundy, France 2010 (750mL)
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Domaine Michelot, Meursault, Premier Cru, 'Les Charmes'

Around here, this is what we call a ‘no-brainer’: You have the perfect 2010 vintage, a legendary vineyard site, and a great producer. The question is not, “Should we buy it?” but rather, “How much can we get?” Today we have a small parcel of Domaine Michelot’s 2010 Meursault Premier Cru “Charmes” to share.
This is the kind of Burgundy Chardonnay that knocks you sideways—opulent, crystalline, mineral-rich, creamy…everything you’d expect from this iconic vineyard and acclaimed vintage. We’ve been holding back this offer a bit, allowing the wine to rest in our cool cellars for a while after receiving it direct from the domaine. The 2010 is one of my favorite white Burgundy vintages ever—don’t miss it!
As Burgundy lovers know, there are no Grand Cru vineyards in Meursault (although there certainly should be). The “Charmes” vineyard, one of Meursault’s 19 Premier Crus, sits on the lower part of the slope at the southern end of the village. It is gently sloping and open, and is known for rich, expressive wines—it is typically mentioned in the same breath as two of its Premier Cru neighbors, “Perrières” and “Genevrières” as being one of the top vineyards in the village (it is also the largest, with a number of different domaines bottling wines from the site).

Domaine Michelot is one of the stalwarts of Meursault, farming pieces of all the above-mentioned Premier Crus along with a fourth, “Poruzot.” In total the property extends across 19 hectares of vineyards, most of them in Meursault, and the wines are crafted in a very “traditional” manner: a maximum of one-third new oak is used in the Premier Cru wines, which are aged for 10-12 months in wood before finishing their maturation in stainless steel for 6 months. 

Michelot’s 2010 Charmes has ample breadth and texture, as is typical of this vineyard, but it is buttoned-up and structured, even with some bottle age under its belt. In the glass it is a deep yellow-gold, its youthful green reflections now dissipated, and the nose incorporates encroaching ‘secondary’ aromas including baked yellow apple, bosc pear, wild mushrooms, lime blossoms, wilted white flowers, hazelnut, fresh cream, and lees. Medium-plus in body and still framed by fresh, even bracing acidity, I can see this ageing a good decade or more from now if kept well. If you’re curious and can’t wait, decant it about 60 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems. No lower than cellar temperature would be advisable (I prefer a touch warmer 60F or so for great white burgs), and of course you need to cook something for a serious white like this: This is an earthy roast chicken preparation I’ve been obsessed with lately, and it’d make a properly luxurious partner for this blue-chip Burgundy.
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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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