As established SommSelect members may remember from previous offers, Gramercy Cellars is a passion project that’s close to our hearts: Owner/winemaker Greg Harrington is a fellow Master Sommelier who went into winemaking full-time, assembling a diverse collection of vineyard sources in Washington State for his Bordeaux- and Rhône-inspired wines.
This offering is a newish member of Harrington’s expansive portfolio, a Columbia Valley-designate Syrah with characteristics more similar to Hermitage or Saint-Joseph than your typical example from the new world. Out of the gate, it led with the kind of blackberries, salt-cured meat and tapenade notes I’d associate with classic Northern Rhône Syrah, but when this wine hits your palate, it is incredibly rich and full bodied – becoming even weightier with time in the glass. This is a concentrated, yet balanced, take on the Syrah grape that speaks in its own full-throated voice, ready to be paired with something grilled, braised, or otherwise meaty and rich. Those of you who love the Northern Rhône should not pass this up.
I found that this wine opened up nicely after about 20 minutes in the decanter, and I’d suggest serving it on the cooler side, say 60-65 degrees, in large Bordeaux stems. To eat – and you really want something to eat with this – I can’t get the smell and taste of a well-charred, med-rare, thick cut ribeye steak out of my mind. Salt it like a pretzel and grind on plenty of black pepper, and fire away. No recipe required, just a glass of this wine in hand, some charcoal and maybe a sweater to ward off the autumn chill. If you are feeling adventurous, the very best pairing I can imagine on earth with this wine is a classic Cassoulet (ideally on a cool evening outside). Slow cooked white beans, duck fat, and various meats topped with breadcrumbs and finished in the oven to create a nice crust. This is a bit more involved than grilling a steak but well worth the effort I promise. Cassoulet is a French classic and if you have never tried it now is the time!