This Bordeaux-style blend from the northern reaches of Napa Valley’s Calistoga AVA hits the sweet spot of the valley’s expression with tactical precision. While Napa reds can range from overly extracted styles to those which reflect the austerity of Bordeaux’s left bank, the 2012 Chris’s Cuvée from Kenefick Ranch delivers the ideal balance we look for in Napa Valley Cabernets.
This boutique producer consistently strikes a chord with me every time I drink their wines; this incredibly elegant example is no exception. Well-composed fruit, complex earth and savory components merge to reveal a classic snapshot of Napa terroir. I’ve tasted many Napa Valley wines this year that retail for over $100; most of them pale in comparison to this wine, at half the price! In a region where SommSelect’s requisite price-to-quality has become increasingly difficult to find, this wine over-delivers.
The northernmost appellation of the Napa Valley, the Calistoga AVA is just north of St. Helena and boasts some of the most stunning topography of this famed region. The whole of the Napa Valley offers quite a range in terroir; while the southern end (the Carneros) often delivers more pyrazines and herbaceous notes due to ample fog and cooler temperatures, the northern portion of the Valley experiences warmer daytime temperatures and more drastic temperature shifts from day to night. Calistoga’s undulating forest land and striking rock formations are blessed with volcanic bedrock, alluvial fans and sedimentary rock revealing unique minerality, ideal drainage and serious concentration of flavor. This results in wine with an ideal balance - when crafted in the right hands.
The Kenefick family has owned a special pocket of Calistoga since 1978; the Garcia family, which had nurtured the estate for three generations, has remained as their “boots on the ground.” Under the Garcia’s, this sustainably farmed estate sold its bounty of pristine fruit to heavy-hitters like Caymus and Shafer. After retiring from a career as a neurosurgeon, Dr. Tom Kenefick began producing his own wines in 2002, and has since earned a reputation as a remarkable source of fine, artisanally crafted wines. Tom’s winemaker, Kent Jarman, has worked with some of the most respected wineries in the Napa Valley since his graduation from UC Davis. Jarman relishes the opportunity to work with the meticulously tended, estate-owned fruit because of the level of control in the vineyard and the resulting quality of the grapes. In the transition from vine to bottle, Kent lets the terroir speak for itself as naturally as possible. This offer, a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon along with a 10% combination of Petit Verdot and Malbec, is aged in French barriques for 18 months, then traditionally bottled without fining or filtration. The result is a wine that demonstrates why Kenefick Ranch wines have landed on just about every wine list that I have ever curated.
The 2012 Chris’s Cuvée displays a dark garnet red core with light garnet and hints of orange on the meniscus, showing just a touch of bottle age. The pure and elegant nose offers aromas of black cherry, blackcurrant and dried raspberry laced with wildflowers: fresh, wet thyme, crushed cacao, and a light kiss of red tobacco leaf, along with vanilla bean and baking spices from beautifully integrated new French oak. Medium-plus in body, with elegant, soft mouthfeel, the palate delivers flavors of red plum, wild raspberry, blackcurrant and sweet cherry in its core, which is wrapped in layers of red tobacco leaf, wet flowers and slightly dusty clay. All of this evolves into a long finish, encapsulating a near perfect expression of red wine from the northern reaches of the Napa Valley, which is entering its beautiful peak now. This wine will also age gracefully for another 7-10 years thanks to its beautiful composition of fruit and balanced structure; don’t be afraid to lose this beauty in a dark corner of your cellar for a while. Decant for 15 minutes, then serve in Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees alongside a serious cut of meat and enjoy!