In the Burgundian appellation of Mâcon, a short drive south of Beaune, Domaine de la Sarazinière delivers a red wine that transcends any preconceived notions you may have about the region.
Known for large-scale production of more-ordinary wines, the Mâcon also has small pockets of greatness. The 2015 Mâcon-Bussières Rouge hails from just such a pocket, the lieu-dit, ‘Coline’. Crafted by staunch non-interventionists who farm clay and limestone soils with thoughtful, organic practices, they have produced a terroir-driven beauty of poised red berry fruit, wet rose petals, elegant balance and disarming aromatics. This stunning young red is nearly impossible to stop drinking; it is certainly in-line with SommSelect’s “price-to-quality” mantra. This Domaine produces wine in such small quantities that your chances of encountering it again are slim.
In ancient times, Mâcon was a major Roman crossroads and an early site of cultivation. Today the appellation is enjoying a resurgence in quality, and now offers some serious red and white wines that are garnering well-deserved praise when crafted by the right producers. Great Burgundy houses, such as Lafon and Leflaive, are now producing some incredible whites in this southern sub-region. Just under an hour south of Pommard, the heart of Mâcon enjoys slightly warmer weather, which results in a touch more flesh to the fruit and ample texture in the glass. While some wines from this stretch of Burgundy can be overly fruity, all the stars aligned with this beauty to deliver something truly enchanting. Domaine de la Sarazinière’s estate in the southern Mâconnais village of Bussières is blessed with complex limestone soils, varying aspects, and elevations that offer a distinct sense of place. This is enhanced by the Domaine’s thoughtful farming and hands-off approach. The result is a terroir-driven wine that transcends any preconceived expectations you may have about Mâcon.
Created by Claude Seigneuret in 1926, the Domaine de la Sarazinière estate name stems from the lieu-dit surrounding the original family home. Today, the father-son team of Phillippe and Guillaume Trebignaud endeavor to capture the terroir and the character of each vintage. Strict non-interventionists, they craft their wines as nature intended; although uncertified, the father-son duo utilizes organic practices and are convinced that only the most biodiverse soils can communicate the true terroir of their vineyards. In the village of Bussières, the clay and limestone soils impart a distinctly Burgundian expression of the Gamay varietal, as opposed to the profile derived from the granitic soils of Beaujolais. To be honest, when selecting this wine after tasting it, I thought it was Pinot Noir! I only found it was Gamay after some research.
Following manual harvest, the fruit is fermented with native yeasts, without the use of sulfur. It is then macerated, but only for a short time, with minimal extraction, to preserve the fresh, vibrant fruit. The wine is aged in tank and neutral barrels, employing the bare minimum of sulfites. The result is a red wine pulsating with life, the essence of the soil and an incredible purity of fruit.
The 2015 Mâcon Bussières ‘Coline’ displays a ruby red core with light garnet reflections throughout. The nose is incredibly alive with pristine, fruit-forward aromas of freshly picked, ripe strawberry, red cherry, goji berry and red plum over a bed of rose petals, hibiscus, wildflowers and wet clay. The palate is medium-plus in body and boasts ample texture and mouth-coating layers of rich red fruit and unexpected savory complexity for its modest price point. This wine is pure pleasure that doesn’t break the bank and is in a beautiful window of its youthful splendor. I recommend enjoying it often over the next few years, although 5-7 years could reveal even further depth with proper storage. Bursting with life and energy straight out of the bottle, I would only decant this wine for 15 minutes then serve in Burgundy stems between 60-65 degrees. With the richness, texture, and abundant fruit in this wine, try this recipe for
Roast Chicken with Garlic and Rosemary Paste.
