Although the world-renowned region of Bordeaux needs no introduction, it does present many faces that are not always easily accessible to the American market. We all know the classified Châteaux, but there exists a bustling scene of small farmstead producers – much like the fine grower-producers of Champagne – that can only be found through boutique importers. This is where some of the true magic happens. In the picturesque, ancient commune of Saint-Émilion, the Lavau family has been handcrafting wines for eight generations.
With clean, traditional winemaking and organic farming, Château Tour Peyronneau captures the authentic voice of Saint-Émilion with pristine aromatics, soft, elegant tannins, and a remarkable sense of place. Although we are picky when selecting Bordeaux for SommSelect, this farm-to-table, right bank beauty is a faithful reflection of place with outrageous quality for the modest price – we simply cannot get enough of it.
The ancient walled city of Saint-Émilion, on the right bank of the River Gironde, is one of the most beautiful sites in France. Surrounded by rolling vineyards and dotted with centuries of architectural wonders, this special corner of Bordeaux leaves you feeling as if you have just stepped back in time. The Romans cultivated the appellation in the 2nd century, and it has remained a source of some of the world’s most important red wines ever since. I first visited Saint-Émilion with my father back in 2007. As we strolled across cobblestone streets amidst ancient architecture overlooking vineyards and châteaux, I felt a deep connection with this place. The unique village, at its best, captures balanced, elegant, age-worthy wines that are sheer magic. Unfortunately, many producers have embraced more modern methods of winemaking that have resulted in expressions lacking the traditional flavor profile and true voice of the terroir. However, there are still a few producers who craft their wines with time-honored traditions revealing an authentic sense of place and the quintessential voice of great Saint-Émilion. Such is the case with Château Tour Peyronneau. The estate is situated on the right bank just west of the ancient walled city where Pierrick Lavau refuses to craft wines for scores and opts instead to derive the purest examples of the land possible without manipulation.
Monsieur Lavau, the eighth-generation winemaker and owner of Tour Peyronneau and sister property, Château Bernateau, passionately crafts his wines with an eye toward tradition and quality. Honest wines, like Pierrick’s, speak clearly of their terroir and are an example of how wonderful traditionally-crafted wines from Saint-Émilion can be. This example from the 2014 vintage is derived from vines over 30 years of age, rooted in gravel, sand, and clay. Pierrick farms organically and harvests by hand, which delivers pristine fruit with the unadulterated voice of classic terroir. Following de-stemming, the grapes are fermented with indigenous yeast in stainless steel for 28-36 days. Then, roughly one-third of the wine, the portion derived from heavier clay soils, goes into new French barriques where it is aged for 12 months. The remaining wine is aged in tank. The resulting 2014 Château Tour Peyronneau, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru offers layers of flavors and texture that is on par with Bordeaux reds at a much higher price point.
The 2014 Saint-Émilion displays a dark ruby core with ruby and garnet reflections on the rim. Classic earth driven aromas of black and red currant, red and black plum, as well as red cherry, awaken the senses then evolve into secondary aromas of fresh violets, thyme, bay leaf, red and green tobacco, pencil lead, leather and wet clay. The palate is medium-plus in body and reveals a clear sense of fruit, soft, elegant tannins and an earth-driven display of substantial complexity that lingers indefinitely. The pristine fruit is in perfect form as soon as the cork is pulled, but 30-45 minutes in a decanter reveals secondary notes of earth and the famed terroir that makes Bordeaux so great. The last time I was in Saint-Émilion, I was served a rare filet mignon with butter and fresh shaved truffles that would serve this classic expression beautifully. Serve the wine in Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees after 30-45 minutes in a decanter and you will be enamored with the results. Although I highly advise drinking a bottle in its splendid youth, set some of this wine aside for its peak between 2020-2025.
