Sauternes, of course, is the magical sweet wine of Bordeaux, crafted from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes that are left to hang on the vine, extra-long – into the cooler, damp fall months – until they wither and grow affected by the “noble rot” called botrytis. In the right conditions, this fungus doesn’t simply rot and destroy the grape bunch, but rather concentrates the sugars in the grapes by gently breaking down the skin, allowing the grapes' internal water to slowly evaporate out. The unctuous juice of these grapes doesn’t ferment to dryness, and the best examples of Sauternes also maintain refreshing acidity levels. They’re the ultimate “meditation” wines, meant to be sipped and savored slowly and capable of decades of aging thanks to the preservative effects of residual sugar.
Most wine lovers know Sauternes at least anecdotally, thanks to the international fame of Château d’Yquem, the Gold Standard of Sauternes (again, one of Château Suduiraut’s direct neighbors). Hoarded by collectors and high-end restaurants, Château d’Yquem is the kind of wine most of us experience only ephemerally – a precious sip or two at the end of a meal, doled out like rare medicine from a 375mL bottle. Or maybe we encounter a bottle encased in glass at a retail store and think, ‘When would I ever have occasion to drink something like that?’
Château Suduiraut’s roots in Bordeaux go back to the 16th century, and it is regularly placed in the top rank of Sauternes alongside the likes of its neighbor, d’Yquem, and Rieussec. So, it’s a little shocking to us that a full, 750mL bottle of this perfectly-aged wine sells for less than $100. Comprised of 90% Semillon and 10% Sauvignon Blanc, the wine was harvested over the course of several passes through the vineyard, fermented in stainless steel, then aged in small oak barriques for 2 years.
Now with 20 years of bottle age under its belt, this burnished, golden ambrosia is hitting its stride, layering notes of preserved apricot, orange marmalade, hazelnut, white truffle and dried flowers over its still-youthful peach compote and fruit. The palate is penetrating and incredibly viscous, delivering intense new sensations with each sip – honeysuckle, candied orange peel, saffron – while maintaining a refreshing acidity which frames the wine. Its combination of tension and power on the palate is breathtaking, as is its melding of sweet and savory flavors. For us, the most obvious pairing for Sauternes is funky, salty, cheese – Roquefort, Taleggio, Stilton – which Sauternes wraps in its sweet embrace. But there are many other “savory” applications for this wine that might come earlier in a meal: a lobe of seared foie gras drizzled with a citrusy sauce would be the ultimate showcase for Sauternes’ many facets (a combo you may well have encountered in a restaurant and wished to emulate). There are also any number of salty, fatty, spicy preparations for which Sauternes would be the perfect foil, its depth of flavor matching the intensity of the dish while its sweetness and glycerine-like texture envelop the salt and/or heat. Despite usually being listed as a “dessert” wine, we find it doesn’t work so great in that category – unless the wine itself is the dessert!
Although you’ll be tempted to demolish this bottle in one sitting with some good friends, the bonus with Sauternes is that it’ll last for weeks, if not months, re-corked in the refrigerator – thanks again to its residual sugar. Re-visit it a few weeks down the line and marvel at its heightened complexity, and give it a little room to move – no tiny digestivo glasses here, but rather an ample stem for a great white wine, one whose aromas will fill a room almost instantly. Let it come up to cellar temperature or thereabouts for maximum enjoyment, just like any great white wine, and again, don’t wait for dessert.
