Many of you are familiar with Nebbiolo’s uncanny ability to capture finessed perfume, freshness and grip unlike any other varietal. Although the most famous and expensive examples of Nebbiolo are from Barolo and Barbaresco within Piedmont, just a short drive north reveals stunning expressions of Nebbiolo for a fraction of the price.
There are few better examples of this than the 2012 Podere dei Ginepri from the Nervi Winery in the Coste della Sesia DOC. Known locally as, “Spanna,” this Nebbiolo benefits from the Alpine air and higher elevation of the neighboring snow-capped alps, which delivers a more high-toned, charming expression that is reminiscent of Burgundy in its elegant finesse. When I first put my nose in the glass, I bought everything that was available.
The Nervi Estate is the oldest recognized winery in Gattinara. Winemaking in Gattinara reaches back to the Romans in the second century and was already well known by European aristocracy by the Renaissance period. The historic stretch of vineyards rests in the northern reaches of Piedmont about 90 minutes north of Barolo. Perched in foothills below the European Alp’s second highest peak, Monte Rosa, Nervi’s vineyards boast an expression of Nebbiolo that is often described as more feminine as it is even more perfumed than Barolo or Barbaresco. Extreme diurnal shifts, thanks to the altitude, as well as volcanic rock and clay as opposed to the calcareous and marl deposits akin to Barolo, lend enhanced aromatics and a unique mineral expression of this treasured grape at a truly attractive price point for the quality.
Founded by Luigi Nervi in 1906, Nervi came to the attention of the current Norwegian owners when Erling Astrup first tasted the wines back in 1995. Struck by the beauty of land and the energy found in the glass, it became a dream to someday own the precious vines and winery. It took sixteen years; then, in 2011 along with four Norwegian families, Erling’s dream became a reality and the passion definitely has made the transition to the bottle. Chief Enologist and veteran winemaker, Enrico Fileppo, has been a constant fixture at Nervi and has made the shift in ownership a truly flawless one. Fileppo tends the mother yeast culture, used for fermentation and propagated since the fifties, and maintains it is one source of the winery’s consistent style over the years. Under their viticulturist, Etorre Bornate, the vineyards are tended and harvested by hand. The Podere dei Ginepri is 100% Nebbiolo and is derived from the Valferana, Garavoglie and Casacce vineyards at 290-350 meters in elevation. In their ancient cellar, the grapes are gently destemmed and crushed then spend ten days in climate-controlled stainless steel where the juice undergoes fermentation with natural, indigenous yeast. The wine is aged for 18 months in a combination of large Slavonian oak casks and cement vats, which allows the varietal purity and unique sense of place to shine unadulterated.
The 2012 Podere dei Ginepri displays a garnet red core that quickly moves to amber and orange hues on the rim. Classic Nebbiolo aromas of strawberry, redcurrant and sour cherry are laced with fragrance of the alps including pine needles, alpine herbs and fennel over notes of dried tobacco and leather, sandalwood, dried roses, a kiss of tomato leaf and dried spices. The medium-bodied palate combines high-toned Alpine freshness and tension with the grip we all adore in the varietal then unfolds to reveal bright redcurrant, sour cherry and a touch of pomegranate over exotic spices, pine, wet herbs, dried roses and the crisp flavor of Alps. This beautiful expression of Nebbiolo is entering its sweet spot now and will continue to charm for several years if kept well. This wine only gets more impressive with oxygen so decant for 30-45 minutes then serve between 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems. For a true Piedmontese pairing, try this
http://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/corzetti-pasta-with-dried-mushroom-ragu Corzetti Pasta with Mushroom Ragu.
