As one of the most iconic French estates, Domaine Vacheron stands, not only at the top of producers in Sancerre but as one of the top in France.
Although the Sancerre appellation is considered the world’s greatest appellation for Sauvignon Blanc, it is Domaine Vacheron’s Sancerre Rouge, derived from biodynamically-grown Pinot Noir, that is their most sought-after wine because of the limited amount produced. From the near-perfect 2014 vintage, the Sancerre Rouge offers ideal concentration, texture, and elegance that rivals Burgundy’s greats but captures the unique minerality and soulful charm of Sancerre. For those of you trying to curate a thoughtful cellar without breaking the bank, this wine will reveal something truly magical and deeply complex just a few years away. Due to high worldwide demand and the tiny amount produced, this wine traditionally disappears quickly from the importer shortly after reaching our shores.
The picturesque, medieval village of Sancerre lies in the far east of the vast Loire Valley. This legendary appellation is very similar in geography and soil composition to that of Burgundy, which contributes to the remarkable Pinot Noir that is currently pouring out of the appellation. Domaine Vacheron’s estate boasts a remarkable confluence of the famed appellation’s minerality. The silex soils are comprised of a typical combination of flint and sandstone that lies over a bed of Kimmeridgian limestone; these soils are reminiscent of those in Burgundy but lend an additional, irreplicable layer of minerality to the aromatics in the glass.
When I visited Domaine Vacheron several years ago, it was easily one of the most memorable highlights of my entire trip to France. Passionately upholding Domaine Vacheron’s incredible legacy are third-generation winemakers, vignerons and cousins, Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique Vacheron, who took the reins of this world-famous domaine from their fathers. After extensive study around the world, they returned to their hometown and family’s winery. While Jean-Laurent and Jean-Dominique’s fathers had always practiced natural winemaking techniques, it was the cousins who passionately pushed for organic and biodynamic certification, which was granted in 2003 and 2004. With already superb terroir on the estate, their practice of strict organic and biodynamic practices pushes the envelope for quality and further translates this magical sense of place. This dedicated work in the vineyards beautifully transmit the essence of the terroir in such a truly profound way and has resulted in an even more pronounced level of energy and focus to their wines. Domaine Vacheron’s prized Sancerre Rouge is sourced from several special lieux-dit parcels including La Belle Dame, Le Paradis, and Les Romains. The pristine Pinot Noir is hand-harvested and fermented separately in stainless steel then aged in mostly neutral oak for 12-14 months. The result is an incredibly age-worthy Pinot Noir that is one of the best-kept secrets in the market.
The 2014 Sancerre Rouge displays a pale, highly reflective red ruby core with slight pink and garnet glints on the rim. The perfectly poised and balanced nose triggers an immediate sense-memory of the classic red Burgundies from the Côte de Nuits. Perfumed aromatics of wild berries, including tart strawberry, slightly underripe cherry and a kiss of pomegranate are delicately intertwined with wet rose petals, freshly picked sage, wet fern, nettles, underbrush and crushed white rocks. The medium-bodied wine glides across the tongue with elegance and softness – a touch of sweetness to the wild berry fruit quickly evolves to savory elements of grape stems and wet roses then delivers a touch of crushed limestone that drives the long, lingering finish. I must admit, I drank a bottle of this last week, and the wine was incredible, but I kept pondering how profound the experience would be with another few years in the cellar. If you can wait another 3-5 years to pop the cork, this wine will perform like a fine, mature Burgundy and reveal a pleasure well beyond the price. For instant gratification, decant for one hour and serve between 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems. Although this wine pairs beautifully with classics like Boeuf Bourguignon or Coq au Vin, this wine will be the perfect companion to a simple pan seared flat iron steak, well rested and served rare with roasted potatoes and some simply made vegetables. Sometimes the most simple dishes make the best pairings.
