Adrift between France and Italy in the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean lies the mountainous French island of Corsica. The famed atoll of Napoléon is home to unique indigenous varietals, untouched by the mainland and wholly unique to Corsica, delivering a sensory journey as fascinating and alluring as the storied island itself.
This legendary producer, Domaine Abbatucci, is not only the most celebrated in Corsica, but it is also responsible for keeping these heirloom varietals thriving and single-handedly saving them from near extinction several decades ago. You probably know by now that Domaine Abbatucci’s Rosé is one of our all-time favorites, which we offer in limited amounts each vintage. However, this offer is for their equally divine 2015 Frais Impérial Rouge, which appears on our shores and is immediately swallowed up by the best restaurants in the U.S. Like an expression of Corsica in the glass, this wine represents the thriving life-force of Abbatucci’s biodynamically farmed vineyards. We bought all of the painfully small stock that remains in the country.
The name Abbatucci resonates with citizens of Corsica on par with their homegrown son, Napoléon Bonaparte. In fact, General Jean-Charles Abbatucci was one of the famed emperor’s right hands and also served as a hero of the French Revolution. Today, the domaine is run by his direct descendant and namesake, Jean-Charles Abbatucci. Just south of the capital city of Ajaccio, Jean-Charles practices strict, certified biodynamic viticulture and nurtures a thriving ecosystem that results in the finest, terroir-driven grapes on the island. Several decades ago, his father, Antoine, planted the family vineyards from cuttings of indigenous varietals of historic, high-elevation vineyards that were found deep in the island’s mountains. As the population of the island left the mountains for life on the coast, their vineyards were abandoned, and Antoine’s efforts saved many native varietals from being lost forever. Today, his son, Jean-Charles, continues to propagate these precious varietals with séléction massale derived solely from his estate. A true Corsican treasure, he not only nurtures his vines with conscientious viticulture, but he also traverses the vineyards with a loudspeaker and serenades the vines with local folk songs, which he feels keeps them happy and inspired.
The 2013 Rouge Frais Impérial is derived solely from the indigenous Sciaccarellu varietal, which is planted on pure granite that results in stunningly deep mineral quality. The biodynamic fruit is brimming with life and energy of the Corsican countryside and evokes memories of fragrant garrigue and wild sea-kissed berries. The grapes are fully de-stemmed then macerated for a short period with light punch downs. The wine is aged in cement and stainless steel tank and results in the purest snapshot of Corsica imaginable.
The 2015 Frais Impérial displays a concentrated, nearly opaque dark ruby red core with light purple reflections on the rim. The energetic nose delivers aromas of thriving fresh wild berries including blackberry, blueberry, and raspberry over a touch of wild fennel, lavender and sage as well as a hint of crushed stone laced with an animated translation of the Corsican countryside that is near impossible to capture with mere words. Every time you place your nose in the glass, you will undoubtedly discover another vibrant layer of life awaiting you. The beautiful density and richness of fruit are perfectly married with pristine freshness and soft, supple tannins. The bounty of wild berries is intertwined around delicate garrigue, wet violets, black tea and crushed granite. This wine is incredible to drink now, yet will age gracefully for the next 5-7 years if kept well. To enjoy, simply decant for one hour and serve in Burgundy stems just above cellar temperature alongside
this Corsican-style classic Goat dish. If baby goat is in short supply at your local butcher, a fine cut of lamb will also suffice to transport you to the sea-kissed shores of the island.