The high-end red Burgundy drinkers out there know that it’s becoming frightfully expensive to enjoy your favorite wines, many of which were a quarter of the price just a decade ago. Luckily, this producer is crafting phenomenal Old World expressions of Pinot Noir from our own soils which could easily blend in with top red Burgundies.
Thanks to heirloom clones, a cool climate, and soils which lend a similar Burgundian mineral character, this special ‘Duravita Vineyard’ in Santa Barbara captures all the perfumed qualities we love about the Côte de Nuits. This wine delivers aromatic complexity and riveting tension that would easily demand three times the price in Burgundy. If you are trying to build a collection of the world’s greatest Pinot Noir, this is truly an offer not to overlook. In just a few years, it will be seeing some of its best time for drinking. The word is quickly spreading that winemaker Ernst Storm is making some serious wines—taste this to find out why.
Ernst Storm grew up in South Africa and cultivated his passion for winemaking in the Walker Bay district of the Western Cape. It was in this cool climate wine-growing region that Ernst first fell in love with the maritime influence and the varieties that flourish in coastal environments. Not surprisingly, he was drawn to the sensuous, Mediterranean climate of Santa Barbara County when he landed in the United States. In this special pocket of Santa Barbara AVA, Ernst uncovered a parcel that is blessed with intense winds, more fog, and a climate that allows longer hang time for the grapes, translating to more complexity and the ideal balance of ripeness, acidity and terroir-driven characteristics in his fruit. Ernst not only respects the terroir and voice of his vineyards by picking the grapes at an appropriate ripeness, but he also emphasizes terroir in the finished product by handcrafting his wines in a way that does not strictly emphasize ripe fruit flavors.
Derived from the Duravita Vineyard, one of the more extreme sites in Santa Barbara County due to its proximity to the Pacific, this wine delivers fruit that is forced to struggle and retain its acidity, beautiful tension and a terroir-driven expression that is a rarity outside of the Côte de Nuits. The vineyard, found on the western side of the famed Sta. Rita Hills, are biodynamically farmed and comprised of three heirloom clones rooted in Marina sandy loam and clay soils. The wine is crafted with 20% whole clusters and aged for ten months in only 12.5% new, tight-grained French oak, which results in perfectly integrated oak tannins that allow the purity of Pinot Noir and its terroir to shine. Only 200 cases of this wine are made, and it is bottled unadulterated, without fining or filtration. With the prices demanded overseas, this wine is a steal for the beauty found in the glass as well as its potential in the cellar.
The 2014 Duvarita Pinot Noir displays a dark ruby core with light ruby and pink reflections on the rim. Savory aromas are perfectly integrated into tense, delicious red and black fruits including black cherry, wild strawberry, candied rhubarb, and pomegranate seeds infused with green tea leaves, a bouquet of wildflowers, a touch of underbrush, and grape stems are only heightened by that overarching exotic perfume that only the finest Pinot Noir can capture. The bright palate emulates the complex expression and tension of a young Chambolle-Musigny with freshly picked strawberry, rhubarb, pomegranate, wet roses, forest floor, wet leaves, and a touch of white pepper that concludes in a delicate, mineral-driven finish. I must stress that this is a young wine with an incredibly bright future. Drink 1-2 bottles in its youth and allow the remainder to rest in your cellar for at least another 3-4 years. Around its 7th or 8th birthday, you will encounter something truly magical if you have the patience. For immediate enjoyment, decant for one hour and serve in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees.