This offer transports us a decade back in time to the unanimously celebrated 2006 vintage, and an incredibly scarce wine from the golden era of one of northern Italy’s most storied family estates.
The Sella family has been producing world-class Nebbiolo-based reds in this rural, sub-alpine region since the mid-1600s. While Sella has become synonymous with consistently outstanding quality, many sommeliers would agree that the family’s wines experienced a particularly remarkable peak in the mid-2000s. We purchased every last available bottle of this delicious and extraordinarily rare wine because it is a living testament to the magic that occurred in the family’s vineyards and cellar during this special era. This is conceivably the single most thrilling wine Sella bottled in the last two decades, and you should not miss it.
The Sella family’s history in Lessona region began in 1671. This is one of the smallest village appellations in all of Italy with a mere 23 hectares of land under vine. The Sella family has single-handedly kept Lessona DOC on the on the global wine map by producing deep, savory, and extraordinarily age worthy Nebbiolo-based reds that not only rival but often surpass the best contemporary examples of Barolo and Barbaresco. The secret, perhaps, is the region’s sandy, marine-influenced soils which enjoy a high concentration of iron, magnesium and potassium. This unique mineral cocktail produces Nebbiolo with an extra dose of energy and verticality. So, especially in a world wherein climate change is nudging concentration and alcohol levels ever higher with each passing vintage, Lessona represents an increasingly rare opportunity to produce Nebbiolo that is balanced, ethereal, and elegant.
In the mid-2000s, under the supervision of visionary Luca de Marchi, the vineyards of Tenute Sella were interplanted with indigenous wild flowers and herbs. Left relatively wild, the vineyards maintained a natural ecosystem and were not inundated with chemicals; only natural manure for fertilizer. This “golden era” for the estate involved a less invasive, natural approach in the vineyard and cellar, and you can still taste the vivid purity and life in the glass. The 2006 “Omaggio a Quintino Sella”, is dominated by Nebbiolo with a small addition of Vespolina. This is the Sella family’s undisputed top wine, and it is only produced 2 to 3 times per decade in outstanding vintages. The 2006 vintage was naturally fermented without any fining or filtration before being aged in enormous 2500 liter wooden tanks for four years before an additional two years in bottle before release.
The 2006 Omaggio a Quintino Sella has light garnet red center moving to burnt orange reflections on the rim. Aromas of black cherry, dried cherry, red currants, rose blossom, dried orange peel, black truffle, white pepper, pipe tobacco, and crushed stone dominate the nose in an incredible display of poise and balance. As always with Sella’s Lessona bottlings, the palate is dry and bright while deep in savory flavors. However, the near perfect 2006 vintage has imparted extra concentration which is what lifts this wine to uniquely memorable heights—this is a wine that stands toe-to-toe with Barbaresco or Barolo from a top site. The finish is impressively long—also a cut above compared to past vintages of this cuvée that I’ve enjoyed. I recommend decanting this Nebbiolo for an hour before serving just above cellar temperature in large Burgundy stems. This bottle will bring to life almost any large grilled cut of beef or pork you throw at it, but I honestly believe you will it enjoy it most if you drink it slowly and without food. This bottle evolves dramatically during the 2-4 hours after it is first opened. It is the perfect companion to a night spent alone with a great book, or a conversation with a close friend.
