There is no better interpreter of the Wachau’s multifaceted geology than Prager’s winemaker, Toni Bodenstein. He is locally known as, “the terroirist,” for his incredible research and mapping of soil types. This has led to the discovery of unique qualities in each vineyard, which translates to pure magic in the glass. Weingut Prager has a lengthy and respected history as one of the top producers in all of Austria. In researching the estate, they discovered, “the first documented mention of the estate, dating from 1302, mentions the place name ritzling, which has given rise to some speculation that the Riesling variety may, in fact, have its origin in the Wachau.” This particular Riesling hails from the 8.4-acre Steinriegl Vineyard. The 20-40-year-old vines are rooted in compact, complex soils of gneiss and lime silicate marble at intimidatingly high elevation on some of the steepest terraces of the family estate. (See photo) The result is one of the most profound expressions of terroir in the country.

The 2013 Prager Riesling, Federspiel, Steinriegl falls into the middle of the three ripeness levels of the Wachau: Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd. The level we drink most often, Federspiel, is considered the most classic and is typically medium-bodied with a bit more texture than the Steinfeder at 11.5-12.5% alcohol by volume. Toni, who inarguably makes some of the most incredible Riesling in the world, was blessed with the excellent 2013 vintage, similar to the 2010 vintage, which translates to a superb wine with very high acid that allows for decades of gracefully aging. This terroir-driven wine is slowly fermented to dryness at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks for 42 days. The wine is then aged in tank for eight months, bottled, and rested six months in the bottle before release. This delivers a wine that belongs on the bucket list for anyone who loves fine, food-friendly white wine.