On the far western end of the vast Loire Valley, where the river reaches the Atlantic, lies the appellation of Pays Nantais. Known locally as Melon de Bourgogne, Muscadet finds its most profound expression in this stunning environment. The climate in the Lower Loire influences the complexity of the wine, with warm, moderate summers that help to fully ripen the grapes and the crisp, ocean-sprayed freshness that the Atlantic presence provides. Although the varietal is better known as a light, thin and acidic white quaffing wine, Muscadet is capable of sheer magnificence similar to great Chablis when crafted in the right hands.

A quick look at the estate’s conscientious practices makes it abundantly clear why Domaine de l’Ecu stands so far above the competition. At a time when vignerons were industrializing their vineyards in the 1970s, Guy Bossard, a legend in the region, swore off all chemicals, fertilizers, and herbicides. He went so far as to de-modernize his cellar work. All of Domaine de l’Ecu’s vineyards, which Guy has personally farmed for several decades, have been certified organic since 1975. In 1998, he gained biodynamic certification as well. Although neighboring estates doubted his decisions to naturalize farming and winemaking, his captivating wines speak for themselves, and they are some of the most celebrated of the region. In recent years, Guy began working side-by-side with Fred Niger Van Herck to find a successor for his retirement. When Guy teamed up with Fred, his passion for terroir-driven wines and respect for natural farming and winemaking had been matched. The two clicked and since 2009, Guy has been training Fred to take over and carry on the legacy of the estate.

Guy and Fred harvest the grapes from vines that are an average of 50 years of age. Highly mature, these vines yield small, potent grapes that make incredibly concentrated wines. The southwestern exposure of the vineyard site delivers ample sunshine to every angle of the grapes. As the name suggests, the granite-laden soils bring rich, unique minerality and depth on the palate. The aromatics and flavors of the site remain pure through fermentation, which is achieved with entirely indigenous yeasts. The final wine is aged on lees in underground vats—a natural, old-world winemaking technique that is incredibly unique. I must say, this is one of the best Muscadets that I have ever tasted, and we are confident you will feel the same way.

In the glass, the 2014 Granite Muscadet shows a light yellow core that moves to green reflections on the rim. The aromatics are mineral-driven with notes of fresh apple blossoms; salt-preserved lemon, honeycomb, white mushrooms, oyster shells, exotic white flowers, wet wool, and nori. The medium-bodied palate is reminiscent of the nose in addition to bright, balanced acidity and an astonishingly long mineral finish. Take this wine out of the refrigerator, decant it for roughly thirty minutes and serve in large Burgundy stems. As the wine warms, it will come to life layer by layer. For those of you trying to build an interesting cellar, this perfect addition will prove to be an age-worthy gem on par with top Chablis in another 5-10 years. This wine is incredible with fresh oysters, but for a serious main course, pair it with this delicious roasted halibut recipe and wine-braised fennel.