To recall our excitement when we first tasted this wine, step back in time and take a look at what we wrote six months ago:
“A few years ago, a group of Bay Area wine professionals joined forces and started a new import company. They continuously search all over France to discover special, small production wines, many of which have never seen U.S. shores. I sat down with one of the partners to taste some of their new discoveries, and as I placed my nose in the glass to smell this Saumur-Champigny, goosebumps crept across my arms. I knew this was something special - one of those wines that truly resonates. A near-perfect expression of this pocket of the world, this 2011 Cabernet Franc, from the ideally situated ‘Les Clos Lyzières’ vineyard in Loire Valley’s appellation of Saumur-Champigny, is one of the most energetic expression of the varietal I have ever tasted. I will, without a doubt, be putting a case of this wine in my cellar. You must taste this wine to understand.”
The Loire Valley in northern France traverses along the stunning banks of the Loire River from the Atlantic Ocean to the city of Orléans in the east, making it arguably the most diverse region in all of France and possibly the world. From the crisp whites of Melon de Bourgogne in Pays Nantes, through home of the Cabernet Francs and Chenin Blancs of Anjou-Saumur and Touraine, to the easternmost appellation with classic Sauvignon Blanc, the Loire is home to incredible history, magnificently classic wines and superb values across the board. One of the most celebrated appellations within Anjou-Saumur is the Saumur-Champigny AOC. With a history reaching back to Charlemagne, the Saumur-Champigny AOC is stomping grounds for some of the quintessentially classic expressions of Cabernet Franc in the world and home of today’s offer. Boasting tiny, quality-conscious producers that rarely leave their native France, this small appellation delivers pure, complex, mind-blowing wines. The Clos Lyzières is one such example. The fruit comes from a single vineyard of 55-year-old vines planted in clay and limestone soils around the village of Varrains. Consequently, this Cabernet Franc reveals pure and unparalleled power thanks to the hefty dose of clay amidst the limestone.
Fourth-generation owner and winemaker, Dominique Joseph of Le Petit Saint Vincent has organically farmed his vineyards for twenty-three years and maintained certification for four years. Known locally as ‘Pelo,’ he has run the family operation with his personal touch since 1990. This particular, single-vineyard wine is crafted in his hauntingly beautiful, multi-chamber tuffeau cellar with the utmost care. The hand-harvested fruit is entirely de-stemmed and undergoes a 22 to 30-day maceration in concrete. The wine is then traditionally stomped underfoot, and fermentation is in climate-controlled concrete. During fermentation the wine is pumped over for delicate extraction; after racking, it is aged in concrete vats for 6-8 months to retain the purity of fruit and distinct terroir. The resulting wine is truly one of the most generous and approachable examples of Cabernet Franc in the Loire Valley.
This 2011 Le Petit Saint Vincent, ‘Clos Lyzières’ from Saumur-Champigny displays a dark ruby, light purple core that moves to magenta and pink reflections on the rim. Aromas on the nose are driven by wild violets amidst red and purple flowers, redcurrant, tart blackberry, black cherry and black plum woven into leather, wet forest floor, flower stems, lavender, sage and various wild herbs over wet rocks. It is challenging to encapsulate the full complexity of aromas and flavors of this wine, but it is an intense joy to experience every time you put your nose in the glass. The palate delivers structured yet soft tannins and a silken mouthfeel that coats the palate with flavors of black and red fruit, wild flowers and powerful minerality that seemingly goes on for an eternity. One of the most memorable and totally unexpected bottles of red I have encountered over the recent months, this wine is bigger and more concentrated than examples like Olga Raffault but every bit as pleasurable. This wine has many years of life ahead; I highly advise putting some bottles down for 5-6 years. You will be stunned at what this wine becomes. If consuming now, ideally decant the wine for about 30 minutes and serve in large Bordeaux stems at just above cellar temperature. For pairing, try
this exotic lamb and vegetable recipe.
