In ancient times, Mâcon was a major Roman crossroads and an early site of cultivation. Since that time, the wines of the Mâconnais became known as a less expensive pocket of white Burgundy that delivered simple, quaffing Chardonnay. Today, the appellation has recently evolved to include serious examples that are garnering well-deserved praise when crafted by the right producers, but don’t take our word for it. The brass ring has looked to the southern sub-region as a source of huge potential, including producers like the Lafons and Leflaives. Eric Asimov of the New York Times reported the following on the wines of the Mâconnais, “This regional metamorphosis has not been widely recognized. Only in the more enlightened French restaurants, for example, will you find good Mâconnais wines. But for people who love white Burgundy and dread its expense, the Mâconnais offers an introduction at a much lower price point than what the Côte de Beaune, the heart of white Burgundy, has to offer.”
Franck Michel and his nephew, Vincent, took the helm of Domaine Michel back in 1996. Since that time, the sixth-generation vignerons have been farming their Mâconnais estate with lutte raisonée farming practices and have moved towards organic viticulture in their vineyards. Although uncertified, this dedication in the fields represents a prime example of the incredible transformation that has been taking place in the once less-appreciated appellation. This wine is derived from 50-year-old vines rooted in limestone and clay soils. The lively fruit is hand-harvested and strictly sorted in the fields and in the cellar. De-stemming occurs only when necessary and natural fermentation is done in climate-controlled stainless steel. The wine is then aged on its lees for six months prior to bottling. The result is a stunning example of white Burgundy that will make you examine the wines of Mâcon in a whole new light. The only problem with this wine is that you will wish you had more.
This 2014 Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay exhibits a pale golden yellow core with hints of green on the rim. Aromas of slightly dried yellow apple, dried lemon and a hint of dried pineapple unfold to reveal notes of crushed hazelnut, acacia blooms, honeysuckle, beeswax, stirred lees, wet limestone and a hint of oyster shell. Medium-plus in body, this creamy yet vibrantly crisp wine envelops the palate with fresh Asian pear, lime blossoms, meyer lemon, mushroom, subtle stirred lees, very finely crushed stones and nuanced exotic baking spices, which are woven together with elegant tension and magnificent balance. A prime candidate for the cellar, this wine is phenomenal now, but will evolve to even greater heights over the next 3-4 years. I recommend drinking a few bottles now, but holding some back in a dark corner of your cellar. For instant gratification, decant for an hour and serve at cellar temperature in Burgundy stems at 50-55 degrees for the ideal display of balance and aromatics. For the perfect marriage of flavors, pair with
this Citrus Brined Pork Loin.