Just a short drive south of the famous Rheingau region, along the verdant banks of the Rhine River, Rheinhessen is the largest of the thirteen wine regions of Germany and boasts a history that dates back to the Romans. Once known for quaffing wines like the mass-produced Liebfraumilch, the region’s quality has greatly improved over the years thanks to increased focus on the noble Riesling varietal and the dedicated, quality-minded producers, including today’s Becker-Landgraf family, who farm the vines. Julia Becker Landgraf and Johannes Landgraf bring a shared family history that goes back to the 17th century. The Becker estate was established in 1783, and the Landgraf history reaches back to the mid-1700’s. When Julia and Johannes joined forces, the Becker-Landgraf Estate joined two of the Rheinhessen’s most quality-driven dynasties.
Today, the fourth-generation, self-titled, “J2,” couple meticulously farm eight hectares and produce 5,000 cases of handcrafted wines. The winery is nestled at the foot of the celebrated Petersberg mount where some of the finest vines of the entire region are grown. Derived from vineyards of Gau-Odernheim and the Petersberg rise, their estate Riesling is from sourced soils that have a cultivated history from at least the time of Charlemagne. The 246-meter-elevation, Petersberg mount, where 98% of the 8 hectares are found, provides complex alluvial deposits of chalky clay, loess, loam and limestone that include Pectunculus shells scattered through the vines. The minerality is distinct to this special site and provides a unique contrast to the slate minerality of Germany’s Mosel. The passionate winemaking duo firmly believes that great wine is made in the vineyard; as such, they strive to translate their special terroir in the glass in as natural a transition as possible. Incredibly eco-conscious, they eschew irrigation, artificial fertilizers and use only natural humus to enrich the soil. Yields are kept extremely low, which results in wines of ample concentration with the unique fingerprint of their special pocket of the Rheinhessen. They hand-harvest their vines over numerous pickings to ensure that only perfectly ripened, pristine fruit makes its way into their wines. Wine is fermented with wild, natural yeast in wooden barrels without the use of any additives. The wine is bottled without fining and delivers a snapshot of absolute purity and layered expression of place.
This 2012 Rheinhessen Riesling exhibits a deep golden yellow core with green reflections on the rim. Intense aromatics cascade from the glass and envelop the senses with ripe green apple, green pineapple core, mango peel and mature Riesling’s trademark petrol aroma, which is wrapped inside an array of white mushroom powder, honeysuckle, lime blossom and wet stone. Even less than Brut Champagne, this dry Riesling offers just a touch of residual sugar, barely detectable by most, which lends harmonious balance to the high acidity. The palate takes you on a profound journey of tension, minerality and freshness with layered flavors of tropical fruit, green apple, lemon and lime blossom—the finish is driven by distinct minerality that lingers for what seems like forever. This wine is peaking now and will continue in this progression for the next 3-4 years. Although, you can pretty much age quality Riesling for as long as your patience allows. Serve this wine just below cellar temperature, around 45-50 degrees, in Riesling stems and enjoy alongside
this Vietnamese Beef Salad on a glorious spring day.