This red Burgundy from the walled vineyard, Clos du Meix Garnier, is a hidden gem nestled in the lesser-known Monthelie appellation. From a tiny, charming village, situated between Volnay and Meursault, Monthelie may fly under the radar, but it often delivers Pinot Noir at a fraction of its more famous neighbors’ price point. The appellation is allowed to produce red and white wine, although production is 85% red. The quality-driven appellation with exceptional terroir has managed to remain something of a hidden secret to the masses and consequently delivers immense value for the divine nectar found in the bottle. Granted AOC status in 1937, the appellation’s wine-growing roots are actually believed to go back to at least the 9th century when Count Adalhard bequeathed land to the church of Saint-Nazaire d`Autun. Today’s single-vineyard wine is actually derived from a historic walled site that is as picturesque as it is suitable for cultivation.
Owned solely by the Douhairet family (monopole), Clos du Meix Garnier is an enclosed, single-vineyard site that is expertly crafted into one of the most beautiful expressions of the village by renowned winemaker, André Porcheret. Monsieur Porcheret has enjoyed a career that has spanned half a century. Before partnering with the Douhairet family, he served as cellar manager of the legendary Hospices de Beaune as well as winemaker for the celebrated Domaine Leroy. Following a manual harvest and strict sorting regime, the fruit is traditionally crafted then aged in a vaulted 300-year-old cellar where the wine is aged in 10% new oak for 20-22 months. The high percentage of used or neutral oak allows the pristine fruit and terroir a pure voice. Incredibly reminiscent of top-quality Volnay, the resulting wine is the finest expression of this village and a layered, complex and classic example of fine, red Burgundy.
This Pinot Noir has a highly concentrated, dark ruby core with pink and garnet reflections on the rim. The nose expresses classic notes of young Burgundy including aromatics of freshly picked red cherry, red and black plum, wet violets, forest floor, steeped black tea, leather, wet cellar, damp clay and subtle baking spices in the distance. The perfectly balanced wine is medium-plus in body with firm yet nuanced tannins. This complex palate has layers of flavors of classic Burgundy. At this price, you will be hard-pressed to find a more serious red Burgundy of this quality that possesses such a bright future. For those of you with patience, put this beauty down and let her mature until her seventh or eighth birthday. If patience is truly one of your virtues, you will reap even greater rewards as this wine will be ethereal magic at 10-15 years of age. For those of you who cannot keep your hands off of her, she is simply beautiful at this very moment. Decant for one hour and serve at 65 degrees in Burgundy stems. Enough air is very important for this wine to show properly in its youth. I often recommend this inimitable
chicken recipe from the Zuni Café often because it is simply exquisite with young Burgundy. If you choose to prepare this dish, and I encourage you to do so, make sure to allow three days of pre-planning to salt cure the chicken ahead of time. Just a heads up. It will result in a night you and your guests will never forget. Enjoy.