Sometime between 1645 and 1500 BC, the volcanic eruption of Thera on modern-day Santorini became one of the largest seismic events in recorded history. The eruption practically wiped out the Minoan people and left behind a crescent-like caldera in the midst of the Aegean. Believed to be over 100 times more powerful than the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens, the blast, among other natural fallout, left behind hundreds of meters of volcanic ash, which lends the magnificent minerality to Assyrtiko that is inimitable anywhere else in the world. The black volcanic earth, dotted with striking white architecture and framed by the cobalt blue sea, is quite well known as a mesmerizing tourist destination but it’s from this island that all the elements align to create one of the most unique, underappreciated and compelling wines in the world. Assyrtiko is grown without the benefit of groundwater as it does not exist in the volcanic soils; irrigation is not only non-existent, it’s untenable. Therefore, the vines are actually watered, drip by drip, from the condensation derived from sea mist that lands on the leaves and branches of the vines, hence the beautiful concentration and incredible salinity in the flavor profile. Another unique aspect to this Santorini varietal is the “Stefana Method,” in which vines are trained in the shape of a bird’s nest with the grapes growing in the center to provide protection from the harsh winds and relentless sun. If you have to see it all to believe, take a look at a few photographs of the vines and this utterly profound landscape here: http://helleniclifestyle.com/wine-wednesdays-assyrtiko/

 

Koutsoyannopoulos Winery is the second-oldest winery in Santorini that is currently operating, although wine is believed to have a 3500-year-old history on the island and some rootstock, as Santorini was not hit by phylloxera, is still producing at 400 years of age. Giorgos Koutsoyannopoulos is the fourth-generation winemaker to craft Assyrtiko from the family’s fifteen-hectare estate and he keeps the operation traditional and super classic. I think Giorgos’ producer sums it up best by saying, “Acidity and minerality are always the hallmark of the island, but an even more basic characteristic (and one that has been lost with the advent of modern, technological winemaking) is that savory mid-palate that balances the more unctuous elements of Assyrtiko with the leanness offered by its acidity. And here it all was in a glass…the first winery was signed up, a winery with pedigree, tradition, and outside the confines of a few locals, unknown to the world.” This wine is not only fantastic for the quality and price, it is phenomenal for Assyrtiko and is a truly classic example of one of my favorite wines on the planet.