Derived from the hillside below the ancient, fortified commune of Sant’Agata dei Goti, just 35 kilometers northeast of Naples, the land was once home to the pre-Roman Samnites. These vineyards and their wines were later celebrated in the writings of famous Roman philosophers including Pliny, Horace and Cato. Due to the decades following World War II and the damage incurred in the area, Sannio remained unclassified as a wine region until it finally received DOC status in 1997; with appellation status came even greater quality due to the requirement that classified wines must be derived from the hillside vineyards of Sant’Agata dei Goti where the climate ensures perfect phenolic ripeness and the minerality is quite distinct.
Sant’Agata dei Goti is believed to have been home to the indigenous Piedirosso varietal for several centuries. In fact, the charming local varietal is believed to be the same, “Columbina,” grape that Pliny once touted in ancient Rome. Piedirosso translates to, “red foot,” because of the vine’s three-branched red stem that resembles a dove’s foot. Derived from this charming locale, it delivers a pure, fruit-forward experience that is a sensory snapshot of sunbaked southern Italy. Today’s offer is crafted by Ana Chiara Mustilli who has taken the helm of Mustilli as owner and winemaker. The family roots in Sant’Agata dei Goti reach back to the 1300s. In more recent history, Ana’s father was actually the first to bottle the region’s DOC white wine, Falanghina, back in 1979. Ana has personally guided the family business through organic certification and has outgrown their 17th century cellar within the old fortified city, which now serves as a guesthouse and restaurant. She crafts truly artisanal wines and this particular Piedirosso is a lovely example of what the lush, generous red has to offer.
The Mustilli Piedirosso displays a concentrated, opaque dark ruby core with garnet reflections on the rim. The generous nose is teeming with lush wild berries, redcurrant jam, candied orange, black cherries, ripe black and red plums over wet wildflowers, black pepper and a touch of smoky volcanic rock. The medium-plus body on the palate is full of compact red and black fruit, reminiscent of the nose, alongside wildflowers, a touch of spice and volcanic minerality. This wine should ideally be consumed in its youth. It is simply delicious now and will delight over the next couple years. Decant this wine for thirty minutes, pour into large Burgundy stems and serve alongside
a traditional Ragù Napoletano like this one. It will be a pairing you won’t forget.
