The historic Clos Cibonne originally belonged to the origin of its namesake, Jean-Baptiste de Cibon, Captain of Louis XVI’s Royal Navy. After his death in 1797, the Roux family purchased the estate and began a five-generation legacy that would inevitably lead to Clos Cibonne being one of the most famous names in the wines of Provence. Although the Roux family history is all intricately linked to the land, it was under André Roux’s guidance, starting in the 1930s, that the Cibonne name really started to garner serious attention. During his tenure the ancient grape Tibouren was widely planted and cultivated seriously on the property. A varietal once assumed to be indigenous to Provence and is still predominantly found there in small numbers, Tibouren is believed to have roots in Greece that stretch possibly as far as the ancient middle east; the ancient Greeks most likely brought the distinct tasting grape over to France when they settled Marseilles centuries ago. In any case, André made sure Tibouren enjoyed a resurgence and it has been a family trend that has held for almost ninety years. During André’s years at Clos Cibonne he was also committed to Provençal wine and was involved in the ministerial decree that granted Clos Cibonne, and seventeen other estates, as designated, “Cru Classé.” Unlike Burgundy or Champagne, Provence was classified not by vineyard or village but by estate like Bordeaux, which has held since 1955. Since the late 1990s, Clos Cibonne has been meticulously cared for by André’s granddaughter, Bridget, and her husband, Claude Deforge.

 

Bridget and Claude are dedicated to tradition in their winemaking but have embraced modernist approaches as needed along the way. The Tibouren vines, roughly thirty years or more in age, are derived from predominantly schist soils that rest only 800 meters from the Mediterranean Sea, which lends the wine its unmistakable fresh ocean spray salinity. This vineyard is advantageously situated in a south-facing amphitheater that enjoys excellent exposure as well as ideal air circulation, which allows for perfect, even ripeness without loss of acidity. Clos Cibonne’s fifteen hectares are tended entirely Lutte Raisonnée, which is a French method, translating to, “reasoned fight,” that focuses on sustainability and environmentally pragmatic farming practices. The wine is slowly fermented under controlled temperatures in stainless steel, but the aging process is where this stunning rosé truly follows the path of least resistance. After racking, the wine is aged in 100-year-old 500-liter foudres under “fleurette,” also known as flor. Fleurette is a thin layer of yeast that provides a protective film that keeps the wine from oxidation while the wine takes on an incredibly desirable and inimitable yeast-driven flavor component. This rosé is not a fruit-forward blush of a wine but a savory, complex, mineral-laden beauty that will compel you to take your time and listen to every note is has to offer.