With over three hundred years of history in Piedmont, the Colla family has become one of the most respected names in the region which is not yet known so well by most US wine enthusiasts. In 1994, brothers Beppe and Tino Colla and Tino’s granddaughter, Federica, reinvented themselves with the Poderi Colla name upon merging their properties and acquiring others including the long-desired Dardi le Rose vineyard within the famous Bussia di Montforte d’Alba, which is the source of today’s wine. Beppe had been instrumental in distinguishing crus in Barolo and was actually the first to separately vinified and label Bussia as a single vineyard back in 1961. After decades of winemaking in the Bussia cru of Barolo’s Monforte d’Alba, the Colla Family knew the cru within Bussia that they treasured the most and purchased this incredible parcel of vines. At 300-350 meters, Dardi le Rose is a south and southwest-facing cru within a cru that delivers the polish of great Burgundy with the distinct character of Bussia’s distinct soils.
The Colla family strives to make the lightest impact on the environment possible with sustainable farming. They have also participated in the Piedmont region’s agricultural environmental program since 1995 and consistently strive to produce the purest fruit possible from this incredibly unique site. Each year, the grapes are hand-harvested, destemmed, crushed then allowed to macerate on their skins for 12-15 days at controlled temperatures before being pressed into tank to settle. By the spring, the wine begins aging in neutral, large Slavonian oak casks where it ages for a minimum of twenty-four months before it is bottled without filtration leaving a stunning Nebbiolo.
The 2010 Poderi Colla Dardi la Rose exhibits a highly reflective dark garnet center that quickly moves to orange reflections on the rim. The stunning and energy filled aromatics entice the nose with abundant floral notes amplified by red currant, red plums, cherries, dried strawberries along with dried tea, tobacco, crushed white rocks and the perfect touch of baking spices that include cinnamon, cardamom and sawdust. The palate is medium-plus in body and offers up a mouth-filling texture of incredibly fine yet persistent tannins, refined polish and a cornucopia of complex flavors that linger long after a single sip. This wine can easily be treated along the lines of a grand cru Burgundy as the vast potential will begin to truly take shape in seven to ten years. At under $100 a bottle, this wine from the exceptional 2010 vintage is truly a work of art. Although this bottle is a child it is an absolute joy and alive with promise, but I highly advise ageing for at least 3-5 more years to really see its magic. Think about all the great bottles of red Burgundy you have had, many need a minimum of a decade to begin to reach greatness. If you decide to enjoy a bottle now, decant for at least an hour, although it can handle 3-4 hours without effort, then serve at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems. For a pairing, shoot for a Piedmontese classic like
this incredible Agnolotti.
