In the vineyards that surround the small walled hilltop village of Montalcino in southwest Tuscany, the Sangiovese grape is called Brunello. Amongst the approximately 250 producers currently bottling Brunello di Montalcino, La Torre’s wines are not the most well known, nor the most expensive or the most critically acclaimed. This small family farm bottles a few hundred cases of this wine each year (all with a simple black and white label that hasn’t changed over my entire career) and then quietly goes on about its business, all the while hovering in relative obscurity. There is no hype or marketing, here. There is, however, a decades-long history of producing extraordinarily long lasting and stunning wines.
Perched on a hilltop 5 miles south of the town of Montalcino, La Torre is one of coolest and highest elevation properties in the region. This unique site affords the wines remarkable freshness, energy, and minerality. In the cellar these qualities are preserved by a hands off approach to vinification: All grapes are destemmed, fermentation occurs naturally via indigenous airborne yeasts, and the finished wine is bottled unfiltered.
To the naked eye, the 2008 La Torre Brunello is as classic as it gets: a deep, bright garnet center moving to a slight brick tone on the rim. The aromas are stunning: dark, vivid dark cherry fruit, black plums, ginger bread, red currant, tobacco leaf, dark chocolate, dried rose petals, dried clay and herbs. Still, the palate is where this wine truly sings: it has a texture that cries out for a fatty steak, with a finish that seems to echo infinitely throughout each successive sip. This is a magical wine, best decanted for 30 minutes, then served into large Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees. A simple pairing with a
very simply grilled Steak Florentine with grilled vegetables would be ideal to let the pedigree of the wine shine. Again, this wine is perfectly ready to drink now, but will continue to improve over the next 5-10 years if kept well.