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Jean-Max Roger, Pouilly-Fumé, Sauvignon Blanc, Cuvée Les Chante-Alouettes

Loire Valley, France 2011 (750mL)
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Jean-Max Roger, Pouilly-Fumé, Sauvignon Blanc, Cuvée Les Chante-Alouettes


The Loire Valley’s vast, east to west terrain boasts an impressive amount of appellations with many varying terroirs. On the far east side of this lengthy valley, Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre share opposite sides of the Loire River banks. Although the wines are similar, Pouilly-Fumé produces Sauvignon Blanc from its clay and limestone soils that are dominated by flint, which is the region’s distinguishing mark on its wines. Although lesser known than Sancerre, Pouilly- Fumé is without a doubt one of France’s most compelling regions for complex, mineral-laden Sauvignon Blanc with fresh, tropical fruit flavors and incredible texture. 

The ancestors of Jean-Max Roger began growing grapes and making wine back in the 17th century. Today, Jean-Max and two of his sons run the estate. Specializing in pure expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, the Roger family takes significant pride in the wines they produce from the vineyards they own in Sancerre and Menetou-Salon. They loved the terroir of Pouilly-Fumé so much, that they began purchasing grapes from small family growers in the appellation so that they could produce this bottling. The vines sit not far from the banks of the Loire River with a southwest exposure. Sustainable and biodiverse practices in the vineyards lead to small yields of intensely-flavored fruit. A long and cool fermentation with indigenous yeasts gives this wine seriously fresh and intense aromatics, while extended time on lees makes this Sauvignon Blanc delightfully rich and creamy on the palate.

The 2011 Cuvée Les Chante-Alouettes has a concentrated bright golden yellow core moving to green reflections on the rim. The vibrant aromatics energetically leap from the glass with piercing aromas of passion fruit, kiwi, green mango, green peach, lemon blossoms, honeysuckle, fresh tarragon, crushed chalk and a hint of oyster shell. The palate is medium plus in body with luscious notes of tropical fruit, unripe yellow apple, grapefruit zest, and a slight flinty and smoky minerality driving the long finish. Ideally decant this wine for at least thirty minutes and serve in large bordeaux stems at about 50 degrees—much colder if planning to drink it outside in the sun, as it will warm quickly. One of my favorite pairings for a Sauvignon Blanc of this caliber is a well prepared Nicoise Salad. Enjoy this in the warmth of good friendship beneath the spring sun.
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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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