Chateau La Peyre’s founders, Dany and René Rabiller, hail from a long line of respected vignerons who were growing grapes for the local cooperative and larger chateaux long before the family estate could have its own winery. In fact, it wasn’t until 1994 that the Rabillers were able to realize their dream and open their own winery. The winery and the family’s eight hectares are ideally situated in the Marbuzet village of Bordeaux’s famed Saint-Estèphe. Boasting lauded names including Chateau Montrose, the Saint-Estèphe sub-region of the Medoc is home to some of the most elite Cabernet Sauvignon real estate on the planet. Since founding their winery, the Rabillers have guided Chateau La Peyre through two decades that have witnessed increased quality and volume. I consider this hidden gem one of my favorite off-the-beaten-path estates in the region. There is an ever-present rusticity and purity to the wines that is reminiscent of the best old school Bordeaux properties I’ve enjoyed over years past.

 

As with all great wines, the one truly indispensable part of the equation at Chateau La Peyre is the soil. Dany and René’s 30+ year-old vines enjoy a patchwork of gravel, limestone and a small amount of clay. The gravel offers optimal drainage, limestone imparts the striking mineral intensity and clay is instrumental in retaining necessary moisture during the area’s parched summers. Dany and René are ruthless in their vineyard maintenance. Vines are pruned aggressively in winter and green harvested throughout the growing season in order to increase concentration and ripeness when the grapes are finally hand-harvested in the fall. Although these efforts simultaneously lower yields and profits, the benefits are evident in the glass. Chateau La Peyre offers impressively consistent, robust and concentrated wines, even in cooler years. This wine affirms the old cliché that great wine is made in the vineyard. Obsession with quality doesn’t stop in the vineyards. Following harvest, grapes are meticulously sorted then are left to enjoy a slow, gentle cuvaison (or maceration), which allows optimal extraction of color, tannins, texture and flavor. Their wines are aged between 12 and 15 months in 30% new French oak to allow the wine to speak for itself. The end result of this lengthy process is a densely structured, layered and complex wine that harkens back to the good old days of Bordeaux.

The 2009 Chateau La Peyre has an opaque, dark crimson core moving to reflections of garnet on the rim. The deeply complex and earthy nose displays classic left bank aromas of red and black currants, dried black cherry, black plums, dried leather, dried violets, pipe tobacco, dried leaves and wet clay. The baking spice and cedar notes imparted by the light usage of new oak offers a classic, harmonious and deeply flattering, supporting aromatic role. The palate confirms the nose and is layered with nuances of dried wild berries, dried mushrooms, crushed limestone and wild herbs. This wine comes from a warm and generous vintage and thus, has softened up nicely at about 5 years of age. It is delicious now. Still, it will only evolve and become more nuanced and expressive over the next 5-7 years; in other words, this is an obvious opportunity for those who wish to cellar. Left bank Bordeaux prices have increased to a point that makes it very difficult to find top quality, cellar-worthy reds at this price; so, I think this wine offers a unique value. Before serving, please decant for 60-90 minutes then serve at about 60-65 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. As with any structured bottle of red, this wine will truly come to life when paired with the proper dish. Any slow-cooked cut of beef or lamb will elevate this wine, but this simple braised lamb shank recipe should offer a perfect pairing for this delicious and timeless wine.