Despite its ancient Roman history, Priorat wine in the modern era was largely forgotten, and its vineyards mostly abandoned, until a handful of producers led a comeback. In 1979, René Barbier, a native of Tarragona, convinced a band of like-minded aspirants to join him in exploring the rocky bluffs of Priorat. Having trained in Burgundy and worked in Alsace and Bordeaux, Barbier introduced the concept of the clos (small, enclosed, walled-in vineyard) and soon this handful of dreamers had their own mini-estates bearing names Clos Mogador, Clos Erasmus, Clos de l’Obac and Clos Martinet. José Luiz Pérez was one of Barbier’s original Priorat crew and he established Mas Martinet in 1989. “Clos Martinet” is the flagship wine from their 15-hectare estate in the village of Gratallops. Since 2001, Sara Pérez has managed all activity and guided their entire estate holdings to fully organic viticulture since 2008.
The first true, record-breaking, heatwave summer of the 21st Century in Europe was a challenging one for growers everywhere. But Priorat was actually well positioned to adjust, with grape varieties already well suited to hot, dry summers, and with the hottest days being tempered by cool nights thanks to high elevations and the coastal influence. Now hitting peak maturity, the 2003 should only be decanted if necessary for sediment removal, and served in a large Bordeaux glass at around 60 degrees. A deep garnet with hints of brick orange at the rim, you’ll first notice the aromas of rich black and red fruits, ripe plums, red pepper, mountain herbs, leather, and earth. Warm, supple textures surround a saline, mineral laden core that is soft yet still vibrant. Enjoy with a rich stew or just a simple spread of almonds and manchego cheese.