Faugères is in the central Languedoc, with its best vineyards on schist-rich soils on the foothills of the Cévennes Mountains. The AOC extends to the coastal plain below, with most vineyards oriented south toward the Mediterranean. The combination of old vines and painstaking farming helps Mas des Capitelles preserve acidity in grapes and much-needed “lift” in their wines.

Mas des Capitelles was founded in 1999 by ninth-generation vigneron Jean Laugé, who began bottling his own wines after a stint at the local cooperative. Laugé’s father had been president of that cooperative and was instrumental in helping to create the Faugères AOC in the 1980s. Now joined by his two sons, Jean Laugé has implemented organic and biodynamic farming practices in his 30 hectares.

The blend is Mourvèdre 50%, Syrah 25%, and Carignan 25%, sourced from “cruelly poor” schist soils. The Laugés source from 40- to 100-year-old bush vines for this vieilles vignes (“old vines”) cuvée, macerating the fruit for 30 days on its skins during primary fermentation (with some whole clusters included). Aged partially in large oak casks, with the remainder in enamel and fiberglass, for 14 months.

Luscious and full-bodied, this announces its Mourvèdre bona fides via its magenta-tinted color and lavender-scented aromatics. Carignan provides plummy, saturated bass notes, while the Syrah adds black/blue fruit and peppery spice. There’s a slight dustiness to the tannins, which provide a nice check to the sappy fruit. A gutsy yet silky red that would pair beautifully with BBQ!