We prefer our Sangiovese to fall on the Pinot Noir end of the spectrum, not the Cabernet end, but I don’t think a majority of Montalcino’s producers agree with me. Of course, there are notable exceptions, and Le Ragnaie is one of them: Their Brunellos are all about cherry-fruited exuberance and a floral, woodsy perfume—which their 2015 takes to another level. The aromatic display is dazzling and there are layers of concentration rarely encountered in the region. But I’m not talking “concentration” as in the wine being fat and sweet. We’ve tasted more than our share of old, fat, lifeless Brunello—wines that were blockbusters in their youth but didn’t stand the test of time—which is why we get so excited about wines like this bottling. It’s everything I love about Brunello, and its best years are still ahead of it.