A top Premier Cru vineyard of Nuits-Saint-Georges, “Les Damodes” abuts the southern border of Vosne-Romanée. If you take a short walk out of this prime location, you’ll find yourself amidst the vines of famed “Les Malconsorts” in a matter of meters. This vineyard serves as the gateway to Vosne-Romanée’s Grand Cru corridor—a.k.a. the world’s very best Pinot Noir vineyards, including “La Tâche,” “La Romanée,” and “La Romanée-Conti.”
In the expert hands of a resurgent house like Remoissenet, this is an impeccably pedigreed wine at a price that doesn't come close to those of its world-famous neighbors. This is one of my favorite 2015s to date, along with Domaine Dujac’s 2015 Bonnes Mares. Looking back over a year of red Burgundy offers, I can think of no shrewder purchase than this: It is Grand Cru quality in Premier Cru disguise, plain and simple. To drink it is pure bliss and for those who have mastered the art of patience, well, your cellaring time and investment will be handsomely rewarded. Due to our limited allocation, we’re only offering this wine to our top customers, up to six bottles per person.
Remoissenet was founded in 1877 and remained in the family until it was sold to a group of passionate investors in 2005. Intense quality measures were put in place by the new management team, which includes Bernard Répolt, veteran manager of Louis Jadot, and estate manager/“million-dollar nose” Pierre Rovani; the team quickly discontinued contracts with underachieving suppliers and signed long-term agreements with 31 new growers who focused on low yields and sustainable farming. They also hired winemaker Claudie Jobard, whose mother served as Joseph Drouhin’s oenologist for nearly three decades. Remoissenet may be known as a leading négociant house, but they have taken drastic measures to bring back the natural aspects of winemaking. As our subscribers are well aware, the firm’s return to prominence has been reflected in our offers mix—Remoissenet has become a go-to Burgundy supplier for SommSelect.
The chosen vines in “Les Damodes” were planted using selection massale (field cuttings) to the ancient Pinot Fin clone of Pinot Noir—renowned for its compact, fit-in-your-palm clusters that produce superbly concentrated juice. The vines are situated on a gentle, east-facing slope that largely consists of limestone. Though they don’t own the parcel outright, Remoissenet had 100% authority over vine management, which allowed them to farm biodynamically and harvest low yields. After harvesting by hand, the grapes were fermented with indigenous yeasts in open vats and then aged in large French oak barrels (~40% new). Following her minimal intervention philosophy, Jobard bottled the wine unfined and unfiltered.
In the glass, the concentration of 2015 “Les Damodes” is immediately apparent. The wine is a nearly opaque dark ruby-red with pinkish hues circling the rim. Brace yourself for the powerful nose on this young gun: black cherry liqueur immediately charges out of the glass and notes of black plum, ripe wild raspberry, and highly perfumed purple flowers soon follow. It’s a wine that has the savory and elegant complexities that we yearn for in top burgundy. It showcases the ripeness of fruit and then introduces a mushroom-meets-black tea savor intertwined with exotic baking spices. There is a youthful elegance here, but the palate is dense with a dual layer of integrated tannins and acidity which perfectly frames the wine. I highly advise drinking only one or two bottles during its youth because the future is blinding-bright. It’s sixth or seventh birthday will be magnificent, but it won’t be peaking for 15 years and beyond. When you do drink a bottle over the next couple of years, pull the cork a few hours prior or decant for 60 minutes if short on time. As always with prestigious Pinot Noir, drink around 60-65 degrees in large Burgundy stems and pair with what Serious Eats calls “The Ultimate Beef Wellington Recipe.” Enjoy!