The mere mention of Bâtard-Montrachet puts buyers in a state of absolute frenzy because in terms of history, prestige, and pedigree, this mystical site is among the most influential and respected terroirs on earth. Along with Montrachet, this is, unequivocally, the grandest expression of Chardonnay you can seek out.
That is, of course, if you can actually find them. Securing a substantial amount is a monumentally taxing job (bordering on impossible) because they are minimally produced and what little trickles into America is instantly sucked into the high-powered vacuum of collector cellars and restaurants. Take Blain-Gaignard’s masterpiece: Their family-owned, 0.4-hectare sliver of old, low-yielding Bâtard-Montrachet vines results in the tiniest production—so small that even the most prestigious establishments, from NYC to Tokyo, are left empty-handed year after year. Obtaining a small batch requires patience, persistence, and the understanding that it will not come cheap! And that uphill battle is quite alright with me because there truly is nothing else like this luxurious, rarefied, and mineral-dense Grand Cru stunner. This is the pinnacle of wine so add a bottle to your collection of vinous Holy Grails and watch its value and desirability skyrocket as the years pass by.
Because of Burgundy’s global fame, many people who haven’t traveled there may think its bustling with tourism and bumper-to-bumper traffic. It couldn’t be more opposite: The quaint villages peppered along the Côte d’Or transport you back to a simpler time, where everyone in the town knew each other and everything was within walking distance. Chassagne-Montrachet is a shining example: Despite lying just south of the world-famous Grand Cru family of Montrachets, the village is home to just a few hundred people! As such, you’ll find several hyphenated “Gagnard” domaines, all of which own premium real estate and produce elite, small-batch wines.
Today, we’re fortunate enough to be offering Domaine Blain-Gagnard, which was formed in 1980 when Jean-Marc Blain married the youngest daughter of the esteemed Gagnard family. With the marriage came a dowry that was more valuable than gold itself, most notably a small percentage of vines in three Grand Crus: Bâtard-Montrachet, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, and Le Montrachet (in 1999).
Today’s 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet comes from three old-vine (some were planted in 1937!) parcels which barely amount to one single acre. Upon harvesting their low-yielding crop by hand, the grapes are gently pressed and fermented. The resulting wine is then aged in French barrels, never more than 30% new. This judicious touch of oak is key to Blain-Gagnard’s vividly pure style: Why would you want to mask this unique, world-best terroir with heavy oak flavors?
Blain-Gagnard’s epic Bâtard-Montrachet reveals a bright yellow-gold color and a nose that’s replete with yellow pear, pink lady apple, lemon curd, acacia flower, and crystalline chalky minerality. This continues onto the palate, which has the cool duality of being both powerful and delicate whilst mixing in fresh cream, lime, and honey. As more oxygen is introduced, touches of oak spice are revealed alongside notes of peach, hazelnut, and loads of crushed flowers. This is the peak of Grand Cru, so the wine only becomes more mouthwatering, textured, and exotic as oxygen is introduced. Incredibly, it is already drinking beautifully after a long decant, but this is clearly built to be a 10+-year-old wine, so stash it deep in your cellar—well out of your sight to avoid temptations—and let Father Time work his magic. That said, there will be a lucky few who purchase two bottles and will thus have the luxury of opening one sooner. If that’s you, decant 2+ hours, serve in your largest Burgundy stems, and watch it evolve as the hours, even days, go by. Cheers!
