What Haden Fig winemaker Erin Nuccio has shown, again and again, is that organically grown, site-specific Pinot Noir with real backbone and complexity can be had in the $30-ish price range. This is no small feat, given the difficulties inherent in growing Pinot Noir, but Nuccio and many others in the Willamette Valley achieve it with refreshing regularity.
As I’ve said before, Oregon really owns this price tier right now—with Exhibit A being Haden Fig’s “Croft Vineyard” Pinot Noir. It isn’t merely a pleasant drink but a thought-provoking wine brimming with energy, a testament not only to Nuccio’s ever-growing talent but to the top-tier grower-partners he’s cultivated in his relatively short time in the region. As he’ll be the first to tell you, it all starts in the Croft family’s perfectly positioned vineyard at the edge of Oregon’s coastal range: Organically farmed and planted to an assortment of Pinot Noir clones, it provided impeccable raw material for today’s 2017, which is a wine to consider stocking up on by the case. I cannot think of a classier “house” Pinot Noir than this one, be it from Oregon or Burgundy—get some!
Nuccio’s story should be a familiar one by now, given how many Haden Fig wines we’ve offered over the years: He got his start in wine at a retail store in Washington, D.C., then worked in distribution in Boston before following the siren call of the West Coast. He went to enology school in California while also working in vineyards, but he knew his ultimate destination would be Oregon’s Willamette Valley—a place that captured his attention since his first sips of Willamette Pinot back in D.C. He found work with Russ Raney at Oregon’s Evesham Wood (where he remains the winemaker), and simultaneously built a network of vineyard sources with which to launch Haden Fig.
The Croft Vineyard, a southeast-facing slope nestled in the eastern foothills of Oregon’s coast range near Salem, is the most recent addition to the Haden Fig vineyard-designate lineup. Spanning 90 acres (with 65 in production) and farmed organically for 30 years, the site is not far from the “mouth” of the Van Duzer corridor, the break in the coast range that funnels cooling Pacific breezes into the valley. The soils are a classic Willamette mix of Bellpine (sedimentary rock) with some Jory (volcanic basalt), lending the resulting wine a firm structural backbone to complement its bright, high-toned aromatics. It is just one hill south of the Ilahe Vineyard, which Nuccio works with at Evesham Wood, and will be part of the new “Mount Pisgah-Mistletoe” American Viticultural Area (AVA), the application for which is currently under review.
Many wines at this price point are perfectly tasty and ripe but lack nerve—this one stands up straight and gives you a firm handshake, one of the characteristics we love about Pinot Noir from Burgundy as well. Nuccio fermented the hand-harvested Croft fruit (100% destemmed) in open-topped vessels on ambient yeasts and aged it in French oak barrels (just 10% of which were new) for 16 months before bottling. In the glass, it’s a deep, bright ruby moving to pink at the rim, with deep and expressive aromas of black raspberry, wild strawberry, red and purple flowers, hibiscus tea, baking spices, and underbrush. Medium-bodied and nicely framed by freshness and very fine-grained tannins, it offers an enlivening mix of richness and refreshment. Although you could consider aging a few bottles over the short term, it’s ready to drink: Pull the cork about 30 minutes before serving at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems, pairing it with some Pacific salmon draped with a sauce full of fall mushrooms. This is what Pinot Noir was made for! Enjoy!