Chablis from an elite producer, working a special Premier Cru, with optimally long bottle age and verifiable provenance is one of the most memorable pleasures afforded to a white Burgundy lover. That’s why we’re beyond thrilled to gain access to a second (smaller) batch of Defaix’s best-in-class 2005 “Les Lys.” Defaix truly is one of the last guardians of unprecedented slow aging in the cellar and unrivaled overall value: The man is bottling some of the most complex, long-aged, and fair-priced Premier Crus in all of Burgundy.
Over the last year, all of you agreed, obliterating our minute allocations of “Vaillon,” “Côte de Lechet,” and today’s “Les Lys” in a matter of hours. Accordingly, we were left empty-handed when the last bottle of ‘05 “Les Lys” flew off our shelf in June, and our separation anxiety has grown with each passing month. But, just last week, their importer sent us a hush-hush message, alerting me to the fact that another tiny shipment of ‘05 “Les Lys” had just landed. I’ve never jumped on an opportunity quicker. Simultaneously round and mineral tense with thought-provoking depth, this is a brilliant 14-year-old expression of a historic Premier Cru—one that’s widely considered to be his signature top bottling. I’m not sure how much of this stellar ‘05 remains in Defaix’s cellar but what I do know is that there was never much to begin with. So, whether you’re stocking up again or trying this remarkable, long-aged Burgundy for the first time, take advantage while you still can!
My own experience cellaring Premier Cru Chablis has shown that most drink best between 10-20 years of bottle age. This is typically the point when oxygen has broken the wine down to the perfect balance between refreshing minerality and advanced aromatic complexity. This waiting game, however, can be dangerous, as one never knows if the wine has expired until the bottle is open. Fortunately, Daniel-Etienne Defaix has proven himself a master of anticipating each vintage’s eccentricities in this regard. Over the past few years, I’ve enjoyed a variety of Defaix whites from the late-1990s to the present and almost always, spectacularly, they’ve possessed a beautiful synthesis of youth and maturity.
Even in a historically rich appellation like Chablis, Premier Cru “Les Lys” is special. The vineyard, which sits at the top of the hill of “Vaillons,” was once owned by the French monarchy (as indicated by the fleur-de-lis, or “Les Lys”). While most other parcels on this hill face south, “Les Lys” faces the opposite direction, overlooking a bewildering expanse of Chablis Grand Crus. This site’s unique aspect and chalky soils make for wines of remarkable delicacy and precision. The specific sub-parcel that produces today’s elegant beauty is a southeast-facing slope in a section known as “Clos du Roi” (“The King’s Vineyard,” essentially a monopole of the estate). The Defaix family owns 3.5 hectares of the five-hectare “Les Lys” and believes this is the best soil it has to offer.
Defaix’s family has been producing wine in and around this region for hundreds of years, allowing them to amass an ample collection of Premier Cru vineyards which are currently farmed entirely by hand and fertilized with natural compost and manure. It’s an ancient and devoutly traditional operation in the vines. Still, I’d say that the most exciting and unique aspect of this property is what happens in the cellar. Defaix’s whites normally ferment for three weeks (sometimes as long as a month) using only indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is always completed but never artificially rushed—sometimes it takes a few months, sometimes it takes years. Today’s “Les Lys” was not fined, filtered, or cold-stabilized before bottling. Instead, Defaix aged it in his bone-chillingly cold cellar so that temperature and gravity could deliver a perfectly bright and clear finished product to the bottling line. Because these wines are built for aging, Defaix finishes the process with superior-quality corks purchased years in advance to ensure durable and reliably air-tight closure. In all, today’s 2005 “Les Lys” wasn’t bottled until 2016, where they then spent an additional three years in his cellar prior to release.
We’ve mentioned this for every Defaix offered on our site, but it’s always worth reiterating: The miracle of Daniel-Etienne Defaix’s unique cellar regimen is its ability to perfectly preserve a vintage’s youthful energy and vitality across many years of aging. So, while today’s 2005 brings all the depth and complexity one seeks in mature white Burgundy, there is no “trade-off” (i.e. no unpleasant oxidation nor watery finish). Even after 14 years, this wine is a monument to the ripeness, power, and deep minerality of the historic 2005 vintage. It pours a profoundly deep yellow core with flashes of silver throughout and within minutes begins revealing an intriguing blend of exoticism. A steady stream of grilled pineapple, yellow apples, apricot, and Mirabelle plum converge with a roaring river of salt-preserved lemon, acacia, oyster shell, crushed hazelnut, raw lees, honey, ginger, and fruitcake spices, all of which flow out into a vast ocean of lingering savory components. A comfortable fusion of voluptuous and laser-focused, the palate provides a full mouthfeel that dazzles with layers of mature, ripe fruit and crushed minerals brimming with intense energy. It’s a master class on how bright Premier Cru Chablis can shine after 12+ years and a real treat for those who have only experienced young Burgundy. Serve in large stems around 55 degrees and simply sit back and watch the evolution of a pitch-perfect Chardonnay unfold in your glass. Cheers!
