Visiting Boyer-Martenot back in March had a prophetic feel to it. As we tasted through a startlingly good lineup of 2016 Meursaults, it was clear we were in the presence of a star—a producer who, ten years from now, we can proudly say “we knew when.” Vincent Boyer and his sister, Sylvie, represent the fourth generation to run their family’s small domaine in Meursault.
Most of their production is Meursault. They are entrenched in this village, which, inexplicably, has no Grand Crus—but in all of Meursault’s best Premier Crus, you’ll find the Boyers with their hands in the dirt, as well as in a host of other choice sites such as “Les Chaumes.” Sitting at one of the highest elevations in the village, at the edge of the forest line and directly upslope from the celebrated Premier Cru “Perrières,” Les Chaumes is one of several ‘village’-designated lieu-dits that Vincent Boyer bottles as a single-vineyard wine. As powerful as the name ‘Meursault” is on its own, Boyer believes—rightly—that sites like Les Chaumes deserve better than to be anonymously blended. This wine shines as brightly as its Premier Cru neighbors, with Meursault’s inimitable combination of profound minerality and rich, creamy texture. And there’s a precision to this wine—to all of Boyer’s wines—that speaks to this family’s ability to walk every vineyard, touch every vine, and hand-craft every lot in the most authoritative way. The 2016 Les Chaumes is sneakily seductive right now, but I want some of this in my cellar. You should, too, and we secured enough to share six bottles per customer today.
The Boyers farm just 12 hectares of vineyards, most of them in Meursault: In addition to Les Chaumes, there are vineyard-designated bottlings from several other top lieu-dits (including “Narvaux” and “En L’Ormeau,” where they have some of the oldest vines in all of Meursault) and a trio of Premier Cru bottlings from “Perrières,” “Charmes,” and “Genevrières.” Perrières is the highest in elevation of Meursault’s Premier Crus and considered by many to be one of Meursault’s unrecognized Grand Crus—and Les Chaumes sits higher upslope still, earning it the nickname “Baby Perrières.” That has a nice, insider-y ring to it, except that it suggests that the wine is relatively light, or somehow less adult. Trust me—nothing could be further from the truth.
This deep, focused, sublimely mineral 2016 was the product of a short (thanks to Spring frosts) but extremely successful crop. There is no shortage of ripeness, even in comparison to the blockbuster 2015s, and yet we’ve generally found the ’16s to be more focused and well-proportioned overall. This wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged in just 20% new French oak, allowing the fruit and mineral characteristics to shine. In the glass it’s a deep, shimmering straw-gold with hints of green at the rim, with a ripe and inviting nose of yellow apple, white peach, lime blossom, fresh cream, white flowers, and crushed stones. It is medium-plus in body yet racy and mineral at the same time—a classic Meursault profile that is already well-articulated at this young age. Give this wine 45 minutes in a decanter and allow the temperature to creep up past 50 degrees to allow its full range of aromas and flavors to blossom, and be sure to lay a few bottles down to revisit in 5-7 years’ time—when it promises to be a downright explosive, opulent white wine. I love the mixture of mineral purity and unabashed luxury in this wine; this is what Meursault is all about! Pair it with a rich and satisfying seafood preparation as in the attached lobster bisque recipe. Very luxurious indeed! Enjoy!