A preliminary note for all you Burgundy lovers: today’s incredible wine doesn’t contain a typo—it’s not to be confused with Côte de Beaune’s prestigious Jean-Marc Pillot. Although only a single letter separates the two, they deserve to be one in the same in terms of quality and refinement. Jancis Robinson has labeled Jean-Marc Millot an “under-the-radar producer,” Alan “Burghound” Meadows calls them “the epitome of elegance,” and Clive Coates states that Millot “is a future star.”
I, of course, agree with all three sentiments, and have a few additional notes to add. To date, I cannot think of a more accessible yet simultaneously complex Grand Cru red. Those seeking a Burgundy that far outperforms its price—which is, of course, everyone—this is it. Yes, like all top-tier Côte de Nuits wines, this will age beautifully over the following decades, but you don’t have to wait in order to enjoy! As we speak, it’s a gorgeous wine to drink: aromatically seductive, perfectly-integrated oak, and one of the most elegant, terroir-expressive wines of 2014. This is an automatic purchase for collectors and Pinotphiles alike, but I also must stress how enjoyable it will be for those just dabbling in Burgundy—it’s a next-level ‘date night’ bottle and a fantastic introduction to Grand Cru Pinot Noir. Whichever category you fall in, act quickly because there were only a few hundred cases produced and I don’t have many to share!
For all of its plaudits (I only pulled a few), you would expect Jean-Marc Millot to be a historic domaine generations in the making. Jean-Marc, however, entered the trade in the late 1980s and didn’t begin bottling until 1992. This is quite a feat for such a young (in terms of Burgundy) label. Fast forward five years and he, along with his wife, began securing esteemed Premier and Grand Cru parcels; thus a burgeoning legacy was born. But how did they acquire these lauded, yet extortionately-priced parcels? Turns out, Jean-Marc’s wife, Christine, was a legatee for the now-defunct domaine of Louis Gouroux, now owned by Emmanuel Rouget—the successor to legendary Henri Jayer. Today, Jean-Marc is assisted by his daughter, Alix, who is now in charge of winemaking. Even if you don’t purchase Millot’s Echézeaux, keep this producer in the back of your mind. They will quickly become the name to know in Burgundy.
Within the northern section of Vosne-Romanée, Echézeaux is a sprawling Grand Cru vineyard wedged in the intersecting corner of Chambolle-Musigny and Vougeot. It houses
11 distinct climats, or subdivided vineyard plots, and Millot owns 2.5 acres split between three of them: Echezeaux-du-Dessus, Les Poulaillères, and Clos Saint-Denis (not to be confused with the singular Grand Cru vineyard in Morey-Saint-Denis). Their vines are hovering around 40 years of age and strict organic practices are in place. After hand harvesting, grapes undergo a lengthy fermentation via indigenous yeasts and the resulting wine ages in 30-40% new French oak. Alix Millot bottles without fining and filtration.
Millot’s 2014 Echézeaux shows classic Grand Cru concentration in the glass, pouring a deep garnet-ruby that transitions to light ruby on the rim. The nose is wonderfully supple and soft-toned. Perfumed fruits of black cherry, black raspberry liqueur, crushed pomegranate, and red currant comprise the forefront, followed by expressive waves of crushed rock, forest floor, damp herbs, black tea, rosehip, and a soft blend of baking spices. The palate confirms what the nose initially leads you to believe: sheer elegance. Nearing medium-plus bodied, this is an Echézeaux of utter class and style—there are no brooding and/or extracted notes here. This ‘14 has serious structure, but it’s smooth, mineral-driven, and extremely graceful through and through. If you’re seeking harmony and a fine example of how top-tier Burgundy operates under an elegant hand, look no further. Though this will evolve over the next two decades, it is a wonderful, fully-integrated wine that can and should be enjoyed now. Just decant for 30-60 minutes and allow it to unfold over several hours. I guarantee you’ll put Millot’s Echézeaux at the top of your list this year, especially next to a roasted duck with an orange marmalade glaze.
