Gautheron knows its true identity: They respect nature, bottle mind-blowingly pure Chablis, and stay in their lane. I can’t thank them enough for it. Really, any producer who has spent 200+ years and seven generations learning this ancient, fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soil earns my respect. There’s a reason this storied region is a staple in every fine restaurant, a go-to in Sommelier exams of all levels, and a trusted source for some of the most mineral- and terroir-expressive wines on the planet.
There are only a select few regions in the world that I never tire of—Burgundy is one of them, and so is its northerly extension, Chablis. As long as they’re traditionally crafted in a classic vintage, I’m going to be enamored with these wines 10 out of 10 times. Enter Gautheron’s 2018: Culled from 100% estate-owned vines, it holds all the Chablisienne essentials along with a level of depth that could easily be disguised as Premier Cru—but its terroir imprint is what ultimately steals your breath. With a showstopping mineral performance and a savory finish, this outrageously delicious bottle should be the sole representative of its region. Perhaps the most exciting aspect here is that there is no three- or six-bottle limit. Today, we can part with up to 12 per customer. Disclaimer: I already took my full share, as did David, Mark, and the rest of the team.
Domaine Gautheron is based in the village of Fleys which sits a few kilometers southeast of Chablis proper, not far from the slope containing the region’s string of Grand Cru vineyards. Although five generations came before Alain Gautheron, it was he who ramped up production at the domaine in the late 1970s. Since that time, along with the help of his son Cyril starting in the year 2000, the estate has grown to 25 primely situated hectares that span the entire range from Petit Chablis all the way up to Grand Cru Preuses. Today, Cyril is in charge of the operations.
When Cyril came aboard, he set his sights on overhauling their old cellar: most notably, by lining the walls with an army of stainless steel tanks. With this substantial investment, he was able to vinify parcels separately and expertly blend them together like a mad scientist. Take today’s 2018, which hails from a number of sites with different vine ages (15-55 years old), exposures, and soils. By monitoring and tasting them separately at the winery, he was able to blend and bottle an exquisite, mineral-loaded bottle of Chablis with an added layer of depth thanks to malolactic fermentation. In total, the wine aged in these stainless steel tanks for just under a year. A light filtration occurred at bottling.
Gautheron’s 2018 Chablis exhibits a typical pale yellow core with flecks of silver, but beyond that, it surpasses the already-high expectations of village-level Chablis. Don’t be surprised if and when this outperforms one of your friend’s Premier Cru bottlings! Gorgeous aromas of yellow apples, pineapple core, and apricot seamlessly meld into acacia, white peach skin, lime blossom, honeysuckle, fresh cream, salted lemon peel, crushed oyster shell, and wet chalk. All these captivating notes carry over to a lush, vibrating palate filled with the Chablisienne trademark of mineral precision, piquant fruit, and seriously mouth-watering freshness. This only stands to improve over the next five years—there’s a reason I purchased more than my usual amount—but there’s no sense in waiting when this ‘18 is drinking so beautifully and open right now. I recommend a brief 15-minute decant prior to serving in Burgundy stems at a cool 50 degrees and enjoying with those who truly appreciate “the classics.”