Matt Hardin’s Napa Valley story reads a little bit like some of the wine-family stories we hear in Old World regions like Burgundy: He’s a sixth-generation farmer in Napa’s Pope Valley, where his family has grown wine grapes and raised cattle for 150 years, and he even married a local woman, Alicia Regusci, who’s also part of a legacy wine-growing family. He’s spent most of his career to this point focused on vineyard management, but it was only a matter of time before his name ended up on a label.
Today’s 2016 combines fruit from his family’s Wallace Ranch with some from Alicia’s family’s Regusci Ranch, in the Stags Leap District, to create a powerful and authentic expression of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. With winemaking assistance from Bordeaux-trained consultant Julien Fayard , Matt used 100% Cabernet Sauvignon in this powerful, evocative wine—one of several over-performing boutique Cabernets we’ve tried recently. This wine is being sold at a price so low it makes you wonder why wines of comparable quality, from better-known producers, command two and three times the price. Just under 300 cases of this 2016 were produced, a small portion of which we obtained to share with you today. If you’re curious to see what new-generation Napa is capable of—without climbing into triple digits—it rarely gets better than this!
Both the Wallace Ranch and Regusci Ranch vineyards contain mostly ‘alluvial’ (i.e., river-borne) soils of gravel, clay-loam and sand, the classic “valley floor” composition that bears a such a strong resemblance to the soils of Bordeaux. In terms of its dense concentration of both color and flavor, the Matthew Wallace ’16 is an archetype, with lots of dark soil character to complement the deep, purple-tinted fruit component. It’s always a treat when wines of this size avoid ‘jamminess’ and instead impress with their thick muscularity. Normally, however, such dimensions will cost you a lot more!
Matt Hardin is one of those guys who has a “day job” while running his own label on the side—in this case, that day job is as the vineyard manager/partner at Barbour Vineyards. He, Alicia, and their two sons reside on Wallace Ranch, where they manage a herd of organically raised cattle as well as vineyards. The Wallace Ranch dates to 1868 and has been a source of premium Cabernet grapes for generations; now fully under Matt’s supervision, it forms the core of the Matthew Wallace blend. Julien Fayard, whose resume includes stints at Lafite-Rothschild in Bordeaux and with über-consultant Philippe Melka in Napa, shepherded the wine into the bottle in grand style.
Comprised of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, this 2016 is both modern and classic at once: Supremely ripe and rich, but rooted in the gravelly soil. It displays an opaque purple-ruby core with hints of magenta at the rim, with an evocative Cabernet nose of black cherry, cassis, crushed blackberry, tobacco, dark chocolate, and crushed black rocks. It is full-bodied, with the fine-grained, polished tannins typical of the genre, and there’s a pleasing freshness that helps tame the elevated alcohol. If consuming this wine now, let it breathe in a decanter for a good hour before serving in large Bordeaux stems, keeping the serving temperature at the cooler end of the 60- to 65-degree scale. It should also improve over the next 5-10 years if kept well, and I wouldn’t hesitate to serve it next to boldface-name Napa reds costing much more. It’s the genuine article, ready to take on well-charred meats from the grill or long-cooked braises. Sometimes, especially this time of year, a bold and beautiful Cabernet is just what the doctor ordered!