Instead of labeling the winners and losers in Bordeaux's blockbuster 2000 vintage, Jancis Robinson opted for “winners and winners” instead. This was one of those exceedingly special years where both banks produced sensational wines and, seeing as the global market was ravenous for Bordeaux, price tags soared into a never-before-seen sphere. We’re now 21 years removed from that legendary vintage, and prices haven’t even considered coming down: At the time of this writing, no fewer than 10 labels are fetching $1,000+, a few of which hail from the Right Bank powerhouse appellation of Saint-Émilion.

To be clear, we’re not saying today’s $52 Grand Cru from Château Mondorion exists on that same plane, but we are saying that it (1) comes from the same vintage and soil, (2) is a mile from luxury châteaux Angélus and Ausone, and (3) has been stored to perfection for two decades. A classic blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this Saint-Émilion Grand Cru has evolved into a savory tour de force that’s bound to pique the interest of all blue-chip Bordeaux drinkers. We took everything in their cellar that was allowed to us—hardly more than a dozen cases—so purchases must be capped at six bottles per person. 

The first thing to be said about Château Mondorion is that they are a relatively new château whose inaugural vintage lies before your very eyes: 2000. Although they launched with the absence of red carpet and fanfare, they have since become an impeccable Grand Cru value in Saint-Émilion and are now regularly earning high marks from the renowned publication of Guide Hachette des Vins. Their modest plantings of 11 hectares lie on the lower slope of the appellation’s plateau and are rooted deep in sandy, gravelly clays above limestone bedrock.  

Mondorion’s team takes great strides to avoid manipulating or using conventional practices on their precious real estate: Wild grass grows between the rows, leaf thinning and de-budding are carried out manually, and a meticulous green harvest is conducted by hand. After sorting, the grapes undergo a varietal-separate fermentation in large vats. The resulting wine is then transferred into French barrels, 30-50% new, for 15 months. Upon bottling this parcel in 2002, it matured in a dark Bordeaux cellar until we acquired it earlier this year. 

After extracting the high-quality cork, which is in pristine condition from 21 years of flawless cellaring, we suggest keeping the bottle upright and allowing the wine to integrate with oxygen for about 10 minutes. Following, pour gently into large Bordeaux stems and savor slowly. This is beautiful, elegant, highly nuanced Bordeaux that flaunts a maturing garnet hue with soft aromas of crushed plums, black cherry skin, cedar, gravel, wet clay, dried bay leaf, rose petals, redcurrants, pipe tobacco, vintage leather, button mushroom, and light baking spices. The palate is incredibly graceful, with slow-building, structured waves of dried red fruit and crushed-rock minerality. Above all, it’s a fantastic and insanely affordable representation of mature Grand Cru Saint-Émilion. This is in its peak drinking window and should be enjoyed over the 3-5 years.