Some offers take a bit of impassioned convincing, others require painstakingly thought-out entreaties, but a select few are genuine no-brainers. In other words, when you can be transported back 34 years to the origins of today’s resolutely classic Left Bank Bordeaux for $59, no thinking is required. This is an automatic purchase for those who swoon for intensely savory, mature, terroir-dominated Bordeaux.
Coming directly from an esteemed Cru Bourgeois estate, today’s rare gem showcases a producer who has long mastered the craft of traditional Bordeaux and sustained patience in the cellar: For over three decades, this small stash of ‘86 evolved without any sunlight, movement, or fluctuation in temperature! But, cellaring and provenance isn’t the entire equation—superior real estate plays a substantial role, too. Bel-Air is blessed with prime positioning in Moulis-en-Médoc, a low-dollar/high-value Left Bank appellation that sits between titans Saint-Julien and Margaux. What’s more, they went the extra mile by reconditioning, recorking, and refilling each bottle—with the same wine—in order to deliver a quintessential Bordeaux experience. Six weeks ago, you all witnessed how quickly their 1990 offering vanished (zeroed out in 75 minutes) so you better be quicker today because this wine is four years older and just four dollars more. Only six per person!
While you may not need this reminder, I’ll repeat it anyway: Bordeaux is big. Nevertheless, most of the attention is lavished upon a relatively tiny fraction of the region’s estates—namely, those Crus Classés (“classified growths”) listed in the famous ranking of 1855. One could stay busy with the 61 red wine-producing châteaux in that 1855 Classification, but at this point, you’ll pay handsomely to do so. That’s why we spend so much time turning over rocks in search of wines like today’s. It is here in Moulis-en-Médoc where you’ll find a star-studded trove of châteaux—Poujeaux, Chasse-Spleen, Maucaillou—Bel-Air—that dazzle critics with their elegance, price-to-quality, and longevity. Further, Bel-Air Lagrave actually falls under one of Bordeaux’s other classifications: Cru Bourgeois, created by merchants in 1932 to showcase estates of high quality throughout the “Left Bank.” Over the decades, this ever-evolving classification has become a shining beacon of value.
Owned by the same family since the 19th century, Bel-Air Lagrave has as much pedigree as they do patience in the cellar. For decades, they’ve held back an impressive amount of inventory, a common practice of yore, and this has resulted in a “library” filled to the brim with back vintages. When the new generation recently took over, they began releasing some of these closely held heirlooms, which is how today’s 1989 was made possible.
As with most châteaux in Moulis, Bel-Air Lagrave’s land holdings lie further away from the Gironde River, where the soils transition from sandy gravel to more clay-limestone. Their vineyards are heavily planted to Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) and Merlot (30%) with a smattering of Petit Verdot, and this ‘89 roughly mirrors that blend, albeit with a touch more Cabernet Sauvignon. Following fermentation and blending, the wine was transferred into mostly new French oak for 20 months. It was bottled towards the end of 1988 and sent to rest in their cellar for 30+ years.
Although each bottle of today’s 34-year-old Grand Vin was reconditioned, which removed a good portion of the sediment, we still recommend a quick double decant (gently pouring into decanter, rinsing the bottle, pouring back into the bottle) before serving in large Bordeaux stems around 60 degrees. From here, we suggest consuming over 1-2 hours, although I wouldn’t be at all surprised if it was still humming along at the end of the night, or the following day. We should never forget the magical aging power of Bordeaux and the tannic power and dark-fruited might of ‘86—a vintage that Decanter recorded a perfect 5/5!
In the glass, this ‘86 Left Bank emits compact, savory earth intertwined with dried plums and berries. If you enjoy cozying up to the polished beasts of youthful Pauillac or Margaux, this may not be your wine! This is for those who live and breathe ancient terroir: It’s brimming with layers of wild herbs, tobacco leaf, bell pepper, ground spices, licorice, currant, vintage leather, truffle, cigar wrapper, and damp underbrush. The palate is impressively muscular for its age, with ample tannin that keeps it firm and structured throughout. But don’t mistake that for a lack of finesse or elegance: This is old-school, melt-in-your-mouth Bordeaux! It’s currently at its peak right now, so enjoy your bottles over the next 12-18 months Cheers!
