It’s been awhile since we trotted out a sports analogy, so please indulge me: In 1989, as a 19-year-old rookie, Ken Griffey, Jr. of the Seattle Mariners hit a first-pitch home run in his very first at-bat in the Seattle Kingdome. That day also happened to be his father’s birthday, and, even better, his father was
still an active player on his team. I don’t think Lucien Rocault’s 2017 “Les Petits Noizons” is his ‘debut’ bottling from this storied Pommard vineyard, but it felt auspicious nonetheless when I tasted it with him more than a year ago.
Rocault only established his small domaine in 2008, fresh out of enology school, so for a relative upstart to acquire a fabled piece of real estate like this—then hit a towering home run with the resulting wine—was impressive, to say the least. With the help of a sommelier friend in Beaune, who’s been a trusted Burgundian “talent scout” for us for years, I eagerly arranged to direct-import today’s magnificent ’17 along with several other Rocault bottlings. Alongside his wife, Fanny, and his young children, Lucien is building something special in his home village of Saint-Romain. He’s a real-deal farmer who tends his vines organically and cultivates an array of other agricultural products besides, and when you taste today’s structured, seemingly bottomless Pommard you’re going to want to know more about him. Not only is this ’17 delicious now, it will be truly stunning in 10-15 years, when you can pull out a bottle and say, “I knew him when…” You’ll only find it here, so don’t miss it!
“Les Petits Noizons” is described by Burgundy expert Allen Meadows (Burghound) as “…arguably the best villages-level vineyard in Pommard.” It sits at a relatively high altitude (300+) meters, with a south-southeast aspect, just upslope from key Pommard Premier Crus like “Les Grands Épenots.” For the Burgundy lovers out there, you know the drill: This is the kind of vineyard you look at and wonder how it isn’t classified Premier Cru. But regardless, what Rocault’s ’17 reinforces is that it’s what’s inside the bottle that counts—not what it says on the label.
It should also be noted that, despite his relative youth and perceived “rookie” status, he’s the 18th generation of his family to farm and make wine. His six hectares of vineyards are spread across several Côte de Beaune villages, including Saint-Romain and Saint-Aubin. He farms organically, certified by ECOCERT, and grows wheat and barley as well as wine grapes. What struck me most about today’s wine is not just the purity and depth of the Pinot Noir fruit but the textbook expression of the Pommard terroir it offers. When I think of Pommard, I think of a more structured, darker-toned style of Burgundy Pinot Noir, with lots of deep black cherry fruit, underbrush, and iron. Along with villages such as Nuits-Saint-Georges and Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard is at the more “masculine” end of the style spectrum. And yet, at the same time, the tannins are smooth and beautifully integrated already in Rocault’s ’17—really, I can’t say enough good things about this wine!
In the glass, the wine is a luminous ruby-garnet moving to magenta-pink at the rim, with plush aromas of ripe woodland berries, sour cherry, pomegranate, violets, smoky forest floor, and a subtle touch of sweet oak spice (the wine is raised in larger barrels, ranging from 300L-600L capacity). Especially after a little time open—a 30-minute decant should suffice—this wine blossoms beautifully in the glass, its tannins much more polished and fine than those typically found in Pommard wines. The freshness and impeccable balance of the wine bode well for extended aging—I can see this wine absolutely singing on its 10th birthday, for any of you wise enough to cellar a bottle (or six). Serve it in large Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees and savor it slowly with a crispy-skinned roast chicken, pork loin, even beef—this has the stuffing and the backbone to (over) deliver. I can’t wait to get back to Burgundy and see what’s next from this exciting young producer! Cheers!
