I may as well start with the most urgent news: Ninety bottles. That’s what we have for our entire subscribership, and that’s not because Monsieur Ravaut was holding out on us—he generously parted with every remaining bottle in his cellar! Although it may seem like such an insignificant amount, we were shocked to discover that this small, family-run domaine was in possession of a perfectly cellared, 22-year-old Grand Cru Corton from the highly acclaimed lieu-dit of “Les Hautes Mourottes.”
That’s the beauty of these smaller names in Burgundy: They’re passionate about building up an impressive library of their favorite small-batch, terroir-driven gems. It's because of this untempered passion that we’re able to proudly showcase today’s mature Grand Cru masterpiece. Corton wines are notorious for their robust character in their youth, but when you allow two decades of undisturbed aging, that hard shell gives way to brooding power and sublime, savory layers. This evolved Grand Cru Burgundy so vividly illustrates the rustic allure of mature Corton and it’s the final bit of ‘97 that we can find. Oh, one last thing: Check that insane price!!!
Up until several years ago, Vincent and his brother, Pierre, represented the sixth generation of Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut, a long-admired estate that reached new levels of success in the latter half of the 20th century. But, as is ever-so-common in Burgundy, the brothers went their separate ways, with Pierre leaving to open up his own domaine and Vincent staying put at G&P Ravaut. Off a fresh visit to the latter, we were thrilled to walk through rows of barrels and taste the quality that’s coming out of this small-scale estate.
The hill of Corton is sprawling, meticulously segmented, and filled with confusing regulations, but one thing is clear: their regal wines can make for some of Burgundy’s finest, given the proper amount of cellaring. Today’s special bottling comes from Corton’s “Les Hautes Mourottes,” a Grand Cru climat perched on the northeast-facing side of the hill. Monsieur Ravaut only own a sparse amount of vines here, but those he does farm are mature trunks positioned to soak up the soft morning rays while avoiding direct contact with the hot, late-afternoon sun.
Ravaut’s parcel is farmed sustainably and his hand-picked crop undergoes traditional work in the winery: long fermentations and slow barrel aging in a combination of used and new French oak, and a gentle bottling to preserve the nuances of each wine. This precious 90-bottle batch only just left his cellar in the beginning of 2019—prior to that, it had been limited to a cool, dark corner of Ravaut’s cold cellar.
After allowing this 15 minutes to open up in large Burgundy stems, Ravaut’s 1997 “Les Hautes Mourottes” instantly gives away its identity: This is undoubtedly mature, elite-level Burgundy. Redcurrant, dried black cherry, plum skin, black tea, turned earth, damp leaves, dried herbs, salt-cured meat, and vintage leather creates a dazzling olfactory explosion that lingers with delicate notes of baking spice. The palate is both brooding and bright, delivering brilliant layers of dried red-black fruit energy and ample flavors of crushed minerals. With this amount of age, Corton’s signature coarse tannins have fully softened, and yet its lifted acidity doesn’t seem to have missed a beat. While there’s no rush to drink this—perfectly preserved Grand Cru Burgundy can last for decades—this ‘97 is certainly in its prime drinking window. Keep the wine’s temperature around 60-65 degrees and enjoy this rare bottle with some deeply flavored food which can stand up to the wine's intensity. The attached veal and wild mushrooms recipe will do the job nicely. Cheers!
