I really enjoy the “Indiana Jones” part of my job, where I get to explore dusty caves in search of long-buried artifacts. Today’s wine is part of the booty from a recent trip to Germany, and it’s an especially exciting one when you do a little sleuthing: Both the producer and vineyard site are cause for intrigue. In the late 1800s and through the Second World War, the “Ritsch” vineyard in the village of Thörnich was among the most celebrated sites in the Mosel Valley.
If you wanted the best Riesling had to offer, this prized, hair-raisingly steep vineyard was undoubtedly part of the discussion, and then...it was all but forgotten. Just imagine: One moment, you’re standing amongst Germany’s most sought-after vines, and the next “it’s just another vineyard.” Enter today’s undercover producer, Hermann Ludes, who never forgot its importance. Over many demanding years, he acquired these ancient vines bit by bit and began crafting intense, beautifully composed Rieslings with limitless aging potential. That’s what prompted the independent publication Mosel Fine Wines to call Thörnicher Ritsch “Mosel’s Best-Kept Secret,” and we agree! After 20+ years of hibernation, Ludes’ 1995 Riesling Spätlese has just arrived in America for the first time ever. And check that low price—when you want to drink perfectly sound older white wine for a song, the Mosel is one of the best bets of all!
Along with the now-obscure vineyard site, Hermann Ludes will likely sound unfamiliar as well—despite the family having been in the wine business for some 400 years. This tiny estate, however, was founded by Hermann Ludes Sr. following the Second World War and the vines they owned in Thörnicher Ritsch were their treasures. But, when they were divvied up between his eleven siblings, he was left with next to nothing. Over the decades, they have worked tirelessly to buy back all these parcels, and today they’ve just about done it!
rn
rn
rn
rn
Back in its heyday, Weingut Hermann Ludes was in a cadre of high-quality Mosel producers that is now colloquially known as the “Bernkasteler Ring” (they left in 1993). Many estates in this group are celebrated to this day, but some, like Hermann Ludes, remain under the radar. Still, the Ludes family kept crafting Riesling from their precious sites and cellaring what they couldn’t sell (for that, we extend a big thank you to the ebbs and flows of consumer trends!), and that’s how today’s 1995, crafted by Hermann Ludes’ son, came about.
rn
rn
rn
rn
As the crow flies, the town of Thörnich is less than five miles southwest of world-famous Piesport, but if traversing by boat, it’ll take you much longer, what with the ever-bending Mosel River. Truth be told, I had to do a little ‘dusting off’ myself and open a few old German wine books for a “Ritsch” refresher. Turns out many of Ludes’ prized parcels in this slept-on site are creeping towards 100 years of age and, amazingly, some are still self-rooted! They’re also situated on some terrifyingly steep grades, consisting of thin, brittle slate soils, that make it so no road could ever stand a chance up here. Acid retention is impressive here too—from current winemaker Julian: “We describe the Ritsch as the Saar Valley. We have on average two grams more acid than the top sides on the Middle Mosel. That’s so unique for the Ritsch. That’s why the wines taste so light and elegant.”
rn
rn
rn
rn
Everything here is painstakingly carried out by hand. Traditional work in the vineyard should logically mean the same for the cellar, and that’s exactly how this ‘95 was produced. Only ambient yeasts were used for natural fermentation in stainless steel—which can last up to eight months in some years—and maturation occurred in large, neutral fuders. It was then bottled after a year-plus and laid to rest for well over 20!
rn
rn
rn
rn
[*NOTE: Please be delicate when removing the cork. We recommend an “ah-so” wine opener for best results.]
rn
rn
rn
rn
We opened a bottle of 1995 “Thörnicher Ritsch” Riesling Spätlese the moment our shipment arrived from the cellar of Herman Ludes. It was incredible the moment it hit the glass—dazzling with citrus, oily perfume, high-toned flowers, and crushed stone minerality—but what really shocked us was the immensely vibrant palate. It is incredibly fresh and vibrant for a 20+-year-old white! We even went so far as to decant the wine, tracking its evolution throughout the day. The first sip came at 10AM and the final one left at 10PM—not an ounce of energy had left the wine! In the glass, it shines a deep yellow-gold and provides the utmost savoriness on the palate. This 24-year-old Spätlese erupts with candied lemon peel, lime leaf, yellow apple skin, apricot, and the unmistakable signature of petrol and wet slate—all of which is buttressed by sky-high acidity. Because of such energy and freshness, the delicate sweetness is perfectly in check and pleasantly lingers on the tip of your tongue. Buy as much as you can allow in order to enjoy these old gems over the next one or two decades—yes, there is still that much life left in them. Serve around 50 degrees in all-purpose stems and pair it with the following lemongrass and pork meatballs vermicelli. For a slightly better twist, amp up the heat level by adding a bit of spice or including the entire serrano pepper. Enjoy!
