Bottom line: I love perfectly aged Bordeaux. Personally seeking out unsung wines from
châteaux rich in history is an undertaking of which I’ll never tire—especially when I can pull the cork on this Haut-Bergey’s 2006 Grand Vin for well under $50.
I will say, however, that direct importing is not for the faint of heart: there’s lots of logistics, and lots of waiting, before the bottles finally arrive at our warehouse. At this point, you want the wine to be good, and with all the investment, time, and emotion poured in, you may even convince yourself it is! That’s why my employees sneak in our direct imports during routine blind tastings—to eliminate any influences. So, it’s always a career-affirming moment when a “blinder” slides my way and I identify it as premium wine. Even better is when its captivating aromatics and flavors are so enticing, I can’t pull myself away from the glass. That’s what happened with this 2006 Haut-Bergey—without a doubt in my mind, I knew it was high-quality Left Bank Bordeaux with at least 10 years of age. It was supple yet brawny, structured yet seamless, dark-fruited yet earthy. I couldn’t get enough of it—and at the end of the day, there’s nothing more important than that. With a decade-plus of age, perfect provenance, and Haut-Bergey’s reliable mastery, it’s hard—maybe impossible—to find a better 2006 Bordeaux under $50. Take advantage while you can!
Long part of the Graves appellation, Pessac-Léognan was only ‘officially’ named an AOC in 1987, despite having an extensive track record of stellar wines and châteaux, including First Growth Haut-Brion. In fact, the gravelly expanse between the villages of Pessac (where Haut-Brion is located) and Léognan to the south is a who’s-who of great Bordeaux properties. Château Haut-Bergey, situated just outside Léognan to the west, counts among its neighbors the Domaine de Chevalier and Château Malartic-Lagravière, to name a prominent few. Today owned by the family firm Vignoble Garcin, Haut-Bergey is one of a portfolio of Bordeaux châteaux that includes Château Branon (also in Pessac-Léognan), Château Barde-Haut in St-Émilion, and Clos l’Eglise in Pomerol.
Though Haut-Bergey’s origins date back to the 1400s with a château that withstood centuries of wear, the vineyards and slowly crumbling castle were all but forgotten until the site was rebuilt in the mid-19th century. Bit by bit, the estate began rediscovering its origins, and in 1991, Haut-Bergey was purchased by Sylviane Garcin-Cathiard. Since then, her children, Hélène Garcin-Lévêque and Paul Garcin, have assumed management responsibilities at the ever-growing firm. The family extensively renovated Haut-Bergey in the early 2000s, and over the years have converted the 28 hectares of vines at the estate to sustainable viticulture. The estate is planted predominantly to red grapes, with 26.5 hectares of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Merlot, which effectively represents the blend of this wine. Hand-harvested and fermented in stainless steel, it was aged 16-18 months in 50% new French oak before bottling.
In 2006, a deep and brooding ‘Grand Vin’ emerged at Château Haut-Bergey, and in a field of thousands, it has withstood its 12 years—in what is considered a tough Bordeaux vintage—exceptionally well. Remember, this hasn’t been subjected to years of UV tortue on retail shelves or constant rattling in the back of unrefrigerated trucks—it has been perfectly stored in a cool, dark Bordeaux cellar. As a result, the wine pours a dense, dark garnet and reveals a lighter rim, but we could hardly focus on the sight: The intoxicatingly elegant nose erupts with rich aromas of dried black cherry, black raspberry, sweet plums, and crème de cassis infused with savory notes of vintage leather, sandalwood, cedar, damp soil, tobacco, star anise, and cloves. If you recall the 2003 offering—lush and ultra-ripe with pillow-soft tannins, the ‘06 is a different breed: It’s a medium-to-full bodied wine that still shows firm grip and serious structure. Rich in tannins, sweet fruit, and bursting with dusty minerals and earthy savor, it’s a true gem of the vintage that will hold its integrity over the next 5-7 years (and likely beyond). Pull the cork and stand it up a few hours before serving in Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees or show it a 30-60 minute decant before serving alongside a savory companion: ox cheek stew with star anise. When sleet is pelting your house this winter, I recommend lighting a fire, pulling the cork on an Haut-Bergey ‘06, and savoring this rich and hearty dish. Cheers!
