AR Lenoble is a rare breed in Champagne—both a highly respected house
and independently owned since day one. This is a family resolute in both keeping operations close-knit and crafting the greatest expressions of Champagne; if you’re one for critics’ reviews (the list is long), they are certainly on their way! Today, however, we’re focused on one bottle in particular: “Intense Mag 14,” a groundbreaking new project that was secretly brewing for eight years in their chalk cellars.
Without our visit to AR Lenoble last April, we would never have been privy to this unbelievable wine that is causing quite a stir around Champagne. But, alas, we were, and we tasted, and we immediately fell in love. When considering the price, prime terroir (a lot of this juice is Grand and Premier Cru), an eight year élevage, and the breathtakingly pure and complex style of AR Lenoble, this mere $42 bottle instantly becomes one of the finest values in Champagne. Hard stop. We lucked out finding this bottle before its worldwide release, so stock up on this exceptional offer while you’re still one of the few in America that has access to it. From our family to yours, wherever you may be: Happy Holidays!
The glitz and glamour of ‘Champagne Houses’ has long since enchanted consumers with its flashy marketing and premium pricing, but when stripped of that, many can be left exposed. While technically a house, AR Lenoble is the antithesis of these cash-grabbing principles: Not only does this humble estate operate with a small grower mentality, they have staunchly remained 100% family-owned and independent since the beginning. And if current proprietors Anne and Antoine Malassagne are eternal, AR Lenoble will forever remain self-reliant.
In 1915, Armand-Raphaël Graser made the fatherly decision to move his family from Alsace in order to protect them from the nasty vibrations of the First World War. It took five years to craft his first champagne and 20 more to actually establish the house, but with perseverance and a little help along the way (from Léon de Tassigny, who went on to take the helm at Champagne Jacquesson), AR Lenoble began emerging onto the world scene. Lenoble is now run by his great-grandchildren, the brother-sister team of Anne and Antoine Malassagne, who have brought on new practices while preserving the traditions that preceded them. The Malassagnes have made sustainable viticulture a priority, eschewing chemical fertilizers, and eliminating other non-organic vineyard treatments. Additionally, reserve wines are fermented in a mixture of unique vessels and dosage levels are kept low to let the fruit and terroir character shine. They are the epitome of progressive thinking.
Does “Intense Mag 14” differ from their standard “Intense” bottling? It does, by a great degree. “Mag 14” is a truncated version of ‘Magnum’ and ‘2014,’ which denotes two important features: that 1) the base wine hails from the 2014 vintage and 2) a portion of reserve wine blended into this cuvée aged in magnums. I’ll explain further:
Being an innovative Champagne House, Antoine decided to experiment with his reserve wine program in 2010. While still utilizing stainless steel, 225-liter barrels, and large foudres for his perpetual reserve blends, he decided to add a new aging vessel to the mix: magnums. So, he set about bottling a portion of still wine from the 2010 vintage under magnums and stowed them deep in their 18th-century chalk cellar. Fast forward four years and Antoine was blessed with a brilliant idea: He began uncorking the magnums from 2010 and blending them into his base wine from the 2014 vintage (while also adding small amounts of reserve wines that perpetually age in barrels and stainless steel). He then bottled this final blend in preparation for secondary fermentation and allowed it to age another three years on lees. The champagne was finally disgorged in 2018 and lightly topped off with less than five grams of sugar. Now explain to me then, how eight-plus years of commitment, prudence, and ambition translates into today’s remarkably affordable price? I simply cannot wrap my head around it.
AR Lenoble’s inaugural “Mag” series release is a resounding success, revealing silver reflections and a deep straw-yellow in the glass while exploding with intoxicating perfumes. Expect a full-on symphony of ripe fruits with yellow apples pears, citrus blossoms, pineapple, and lemon peel, followed by beautiful hints of brioche, vanilla, hazelnut, and delicately woven baking spices. And, of course, you cannot leave out the strong mineral footprint here: crushed chalk, oyster shell, and wet stones race to the fore, making for a wholly sumptuous yet finesse-driven Champagne. This is a masterful showing that will only continue its high-flying performance over the next 5-7 years. Just be sure to treat it properly: Pour into wide-mouthed tulips or even all-purpose stems while enjoying around 50 degrees with family and friends—such a soulfully rich and textured champagne deserves the absolute best company. Busting out a few dozen oysters is a classic party pleaser, but if you’re wanting to see if “Mag 14” can show off its gastronomic legs, put a couple bottles on the dinner table next to a large chicken roasted in a cast-iron skillet with winter squash and diced pancetta. You’ll learn real quick that it can take all of the dish’s savory flavors in perfect stride. Cheers!
