For generations, Catarratto’s claim to fame was its vigor and high sugars, making it a workhorse blending grape for the factory-scale wineries of Marsala. Although Marsala once rivaled the likes of Porto and Jérez as a source of fortified wines, the decline of those wines in the modern era has necessitated a change in direction. Today’s dry, delicious Catarratto from Di Bella is the upshot: We get to see what a grape can do when it’s farmed for quality rather than quantity, and in this case, the results are well worth showcasing. It’s aromatic and lively, but also nicely textured, reminiscent of some of the whites of the northern Rhône. In the glass, it’s a deep yellow-gold with hints of green at the rim, with a highly expressive nose of citrus blossoms, honeysuckle, mango, aromatic green herbs, and crushed stones. The medium-bodied palate (leaning toward medium-plus) has a slight waxiness to it that reminds me of Marsanne/Roussanne/Viognier from the Northern Rhône, and, as in the better examples of those, that textural richness is counterbalanced by freshness and a nice mineral edge. This is “Sicilian Sunshine” in a glass– perfect with grilled seafood and a squeeze of lemon.